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This article first appeared in The Prague Wanderer, a web magazine produced by students at New York University in Prague. I don't know if the Red Bull Can You Make It?! challenge was the first of its kind, but it was the first time I'd ever heard of one. The team was Brett Morell, Will Lawton, and myself. Three juniors in college, studying together at New York University in Prague; one might say with stars in our eyes. The week-long challenge pitted 200 teams of three college students each in a rat race from one of five starting points (Rome, Madrid, Budapest, Manchester, or Berlin) to arrive in Paris, France on Halloween. Teams would compete by trying to maximize three criteria: 1. The most kilometers traveled over the week. Self-explanatory.But there was a catch. At the starting point, Red Bull locked away our cash, credit cards, and mobile phones, leaving us with nothing. We were given one tray of 24 Red Bulls, and the opportunity to gain a tray at each of 35 possible checkpoint cities throughout Europe. We were also given blue Red Bull neck lanyards, relatively official, and a faux Red Bull Passport that needed to be stamped at each checkpoint to maximize our score. Red Bull drinks would be our currency for the next week, bringing new meaning to liquidity amid the downward-spiraling global markets. We joined this competition, officially, about 48 hours before it began. We created our entry video, after Paul, a friend in our dorm, announced he had signed up for this "dope" competition with a few friends studying in Italy. It was going to be "sick." He's one of the nicest guys I've met, save his tendency to hold me hostage on YouTube when I gave him a chance. So, I thought, if Paul was getting to traverse across Europe at a fool's pace and zero expense in a competition that perfectly coincided with our fall break, why wasn't I? Red Bull wasn't accepting any more American teams, so Brett, Will, and I registered on behalf of the Czech Republic and TeamCzechmate from Prague was conceived. Regardless, we were still representing the red, white, and blue. What follows is a collection of advice, stories, and occasionally silly blog entries from our Red Bull adventure. Charm Before beginning the challenge in Budapest, we each had our backpacks, sleeping bags, granola, water, pretzels, peanuts (regular and chili), six Snickers bars, bread, budget Hungarian Nutella, salami, cookies, crackers, sesami-snacks, and stomachs full of Burger King -- a final lunch before forfeiting our debit cards. I had two pairs of socks, my flat-footed topsiders, and a headlamp. That first day, clawing our way out of Budapest, we learned the secret to asset-less travel: charm. It can't really be described in one word, like those posters that announce "Teamwork" beneath the crew of an eight-man rowing shell. It was pure capitalism, and it works in the former Eastern Bloc. With 40 minutes until the ticket window closed at the Budapest bus depot, we had 24 Red Bulls and no means to leave the country. "We're going to sell these now," says Brett in a last-ditch effort. I grab a can, approach an older-looking, well-dressed man on a bench and begin my pitch. Slam. He gives us 15 euros, just like that. Doesn't even want a drink. Was about to give us 20 until his angel of a wife hissed something into his ear. As it turns out, most Hungarians I encountered hated Red Bull and gave us money anyway to help with the competition. The method was simple: engage with genial English, disarm (most important), and throw your best pitch. It helps to make them laugh, but in Hungary this is not so easy. Explain the competition, propose buying a Red Bull, explain why three euros is a steal and cross your fingers. Thirty-nine minutes later we're crowded around the ticket counter, the blinds half drawn, and we're begging the Hungarian woman behind the glass partition to accept the 42 euros we had just raised for three bus tickets to Vienna, Austria. She hisses something, icing over her half of the divider, and counts the colored bills and heavy coins with the bothered impatience of a bookie. We got the tickets and ran through the bus station cheering like lunatics. On hitchhiking in Europe You have to realize our parents were lucky. In 1975, in the midst of an economic/energy crisis eerily parallel to our own, my dad was a senior at a small boarding school in Marion, Mass. The drinking age was 18, students were allowed to smoke outside of certain buildings, and on weekends he would walk down to the gas station just outside of campus and hitchhike out to Cape Cod. Groovy stuff. In 2006, I was a cliché, excuse me, senior, at another New England boarding school, from which I would have been expelled for partaking in any of the above frivolities. Different times. More restrictions and more worries, despite improved anti-anxiety prescriptions. Not only had the drinking age been pegged back to 21, but also decades of evening news nightmares had effectively tainted hitchhiking as taboo, even illegal. Our first attempt at hitchhiking was from Graz, Austria to Munich, Germany. We left the Red Bull checkpoint in Graz at 7:30pm, and in four hours rode with five separate drivers, never waiting more than five minutes in between rides. We drove with two beautiful Red Bull checkpoint girls, who felt pity and brought us to a filling station. There was Christian, the Austrian microchip designer who knew of my obscure home village, Noank, in southeastern Connecticut. Then there was Roman, the first Polish publisher of crossword puzzles and TV guides, also an airplane pilot, who drove us from Salzburg to Munich averaging 150 mph on the Autobahn. It was cloudy in Munich so I couldn't see any stars aligned, but our luck had almost seemed pre-ordained. No eagles though. Scaling and entering: still scary for the neighbors When looking for a place to sleep in Munich, I recommend not scaling the drainpipe to the second floor outdoor deck of your teammate's German-boarding-school buddy's apartment. If you do and he is not home, I suggest you do not throw his hammock over the side of the porch so it is easier for your two full-sized male teammates to scale the side of the apartment building. If you do, I highly suggest treading lightly on said porch. I especially recommend not waking up any elderly, female, first-floor tenants who might live in the dark apartment below because when she finally works up the courage to throw open her screen door and scream in scared German, well, you'd better hope she can holler a little English as well. When you finally calm her down and convince her not to call the police, leave the premises immediately. Do not ask if you can still stay and sleep on the deck -- Will -- and remember to write your teammate's German-boarding-school buddy a subtle thank-you note around Christmas time. Blog Entry: Don't Forget to Curb the Hubris on the Way to Innsbruck Fanciful feasts: on being a guest in Austria when the going gets good Coldplay's Parachutes was playing on the stereo when I woke up. I looked out the window above my bed onto the highest peaks of Innsbruck's Nordkette mountain range. In the distance some peaks were blanketed with snow, reaching towards the sky and soaring where only eagles dare. And then the song changed. "Is this the real life, is this just fantasy? Caught in a landslide, no escape from reality." Good morning to you too, Mr. Mercury. Our hosts, Jakob Seewald and Stefanie Praouer, were the finest that Austria could ever offer. The smell of cappuccino drifted in from the kitchen. Another 10 minutes of sleep couldn't hurt, I rationalized, and, as I drifted away, the absurdity of the previous night kept me half-dreaming, half-awake. "Well you can stay with us. We'll cook dinner and have something to drink," Jakob offered as we came into Innsbruck. His words were heaven to our ears. The smell of their tiny, clean apartment was a welcome contrast to the manure fields of Bavaria. Stef began cooking, and soon the rooms were filled with the wonderful scent of simmering onions and vegetables. And they had towels. Glorious towels that we could use… after we showered. What a concept. Soon it was dinner, and Stef carried a giant, stainless cauldron of pasta with cheese and vegetables to the table. Jakob served sparkling wine in his plus-sized wine goblets. We ate at least three servings each and enjoyed stories of extraordinary travel and exceptional circumstances. And then dinner was finished. "But do you want dessert?" asked Stef. "Yes, please," our stomachs grumbled. Two bowls of organic ice cream apiece, one doused in homemade chocolate sauce, the other in a rare South African olive oil that Stef's uncle had brought back on a trip some months back. The combination was unreal -- the perfect fusion of sweet trailed by a lingering, salty afterthought. This was heaven, or at least the Austrian equivalent. Pure, unadulterated deliciousness. Stef had a big day ahead of her so we said goodnight and took a picture together. Will, Brett, Jakob, and I retreated to the porch overlooking Innsbruck's mountain range, under a sharp sky scattered with familiar constellations. Jakob taught us about Austria, the culture, politics, and also his family's farm. He told us where he would have gone had he done the competition, wearing lederhosen across Europe and hitching as many tractor rides as possible. Jakob and Stef took us in from the curb and treated us like family; one day we hope we can return the favor. Blog entry: reflections from Shitzerland when the going actually gets tough TGV bathroom etiquette If you want to travel Europe for free, you're going to have to get smart with trains. They are a priceless resource, but usually very expensive. When we left Vienna for Graz, we had enough euros for one ticket, so we bought it. While Brett enjoyed the cabin, Will and I shared the bathroom for 2.5 hours. This was my philosophy; it also worked on the trip from Bern to Geneva later that week. As you approach the train, try and count how many conductors are standing outside of the cars. Locate as many bathrooms as possible. Don't let the conductor see you, ever. It's always best to keep your luggage on hand, but don't let it draw attention. Stand outside of a restroom clutching your stomach and stumble in. Lock the door and flush every 20 minutes. If you're traveling through Eastern Europe, Spanish is a great asset, because few speak it. If the conductor insists on entering the bathroom, shout, "¡Estoy enfermo! ¡Lo que quema! ¡Ughhhhh!" You need to be an actor here, just play it cool, sound sick and every time you leave the bathroom, clutch your stomach again and run back in. Works great, no one dares bother you. Pay attention to the stops and get ready to flush and run when you hear your own. Sometimes, you just have to lie. We would have never made it to Geneva for free on a TGV train from Bern had the conductor not taken pity on us. You see, I told her that our families were staying in Geneva for two nights, one of which was the previous night. It's important to moderate your breathing and intensity of tone. You need to sound desperate and disparaged. After explaining the competition, and our desire to see our families who traveled so far from America, we were welcome to stand in the companionway for the entire trip. I don't like lying, but it's easier than spending a night outside in the rain. And don't forget to call your mother After completing our challenge in Bern, Switzerland, we made our way to the train station to go to Geneva. On the platform we met the Gutmans, a seemingly well-off couple from northern New Jersey. The husband was a loud, small, bald man. He wore a Burberry trench coat and answered his Blackberry every five minutes to discuss sales of his company's stock-trading platforms. His wife, a bit taller, had the kind, blonde affect of a prep-school mother -- she wore the big sunglasses, nice clothes, and dangling gold jewelry, and spoke with the comfort and concern of a mom. "When was the last time you all spoke with your mothers?" she asks sternly. We look at each other, all knowing the answer and not wanting to be the first to admit. "Oh Jesus, Jonathan," she hits her husband's shoulder with a copy of the International Herald Tribune; he is buried in his Blackberry. "Their mothers must be worried sick. Give them your crackberry and let them write their mothers!" Mothers always know best. Geo-politics On October 29, we crossed the Rhein on foot sometime around 2am, and in one day we traversed Zurich, Bern and finally Geneva. In Geneva it was Will's mother, our biggest fan, who set us up with her good friend Maya. As it turned out, Maya was the official head of Americans Abroad in Geneva for Obama. Scattered across her kitchen table were hundreds of assorted Barack Obama presidential pins. With less than a week until the election I couldn't believe I had the opportunity to begin my Obama-flair collection, once again without spending any precious euros. We each left the next morning with a handful of stickers, pins, and a plan. That day we traveled to Lyon. In the past eight years, I've only heard nightmare stories of hostility towards Americans traveling through France. So we each put an Obama pin on the front strap of our backpacks and proceeded into France. The effect was almost immediate. Oh-Bah-Ma! Oh-Bah-Ma! Random people on the streets, the Red Bull girls, our competition, they all loved the pins. They all loved Obama! A handful of French men and women tried to buy them off of us and we actually sold one for 8 euros. Amazing, as only Brett spoke patchy French, but at least we weren't considered imperialist villains. And finally, the abilities of American iconography were put to the ultimate test. We crossed the park from the Lyon checkpoint to the train station and let Obama do the real work. We found a conductor dressed in blues and explained our story. Of course, he loved our pins. Suddenly there were two conductors, three, now four TGV conductors dressed in their blue suits with black trim eagerly listening to the circumstances of our trip. "Will you help us to Paris, today?" we pleaded. They spoke in rapid-fire French, and then the dark-haired woman spoke. "You will wait here for an hour. We will come back," she instructed with a wink. And in an hour she returned, grabbed one of the three trays in our possession and guided us out of the waiting lounge and down an escalator. It was on that descent I saw a crowd of nine TGV conductors and controllers talking and pointing. We approached the crowd, and a tall black man stepped towards us. "Two can travel in front, one in back. Enjoy your trip." Quickly I looked over my shoulder, and couldn't stop myself from smiling at the sight of a Hungarian CYMI team with their faces pressed up against the lounge's glass window, jaws dropped, glaring in jealousy. He began walking away in strict fashion, paused, and turned around. He pressed the palms of his hands together and said in broken English. "We hope for Obama too. Pray for change." Red Bull Can You Make It? Yes we can. • We believe Team Czechmate placed 10th out of between 100 and 200 competing teams. We traveled 2,200 kilometers (1,373 miles) in six days, and accumulated nearly 400 fans RELATED LINKS Red Bull Can You Make It?! Team Czechmate's Facebook Group Team Czechmate's YouTube Channel Sam Greenfield is a third-year student at New York University majoring in Metropolitan Studies. He is from Noank, Connecticut. A version of this article was written for the Travel Writing class at New York University in Prague.• This article first appeared in The Prague Wanderer, a web magazine produced by students at New York University in Prague |
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