Strahov MonasteryPerched on a grassy hill overlooking elegant Malá Strana, just minutes from Prague Castle, this quaint retreat is one of the city's hidden gems
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This article first appeared in The Prague Wanderer, a web magazine produced by students at New York University in Prague. When one thinks of "fun" activities for American college students, it's hard to imagine that a centuries-old monastery could shoulder its way onto the list amongst bars, nightclubs, and more grandiose architectural highlights. Something about silent rows of pensive monks just doesn't scream "Let the good times roll!" like it used to... But don't let this monastery fool you. Even the monks of Prague know how to throw a party. And, like all parties in the Czech capital, beer plays an integral role. Some may think of pivo (beer) as a mystical elixir of the gods, and perhaps this is not so far from the truth. Since the 17th century, the monks of Strahov have been brewing their own delicious beer in a building only a few meters from their residence and magnificent Baroque church. Although the tradition stopped in 1907, when the brewery complex was used for farm houses, the area was recently reopened, and beer is once again being brewed. The frothy St. Norbert, which comes in both amber and dark, rivals its less religious cousins down the hill and across the river in terms of tastiness and, judging by its strength, perhaps alcohol content as well. Don't miss it. The restaurant also offers delicious Czech cuisine, including a hearty potato soup –- perfect after the brisk hike it takes to reach the hilltop complex. Once you've gorged on beer and soup, make sure to leave room for some sightseeing, as the Strahov Monastery offers a wide variety of touristy and less touristy options. Across the courtyard from the brewery is the famed Baroque library, which contains priceless volumes housed in gorgeous frescoed halls. For a small fee, one can explore the curiosities which reside amidst the historic books, including the corpse of a dodo bird (which looks oddly, and mouthwateringly, like a hunk of teriyaki turkey jerky), collections of bugs and shells, narwhal tusks, dried sharks, and, for some strange reason, a pair of whale penises. According to some tour books, the old ladies who work in the library will coyly tell you that the latter are actually dried elephant trunks if asked! The Philosophical Hall, which sits just beyond the hall of curiosities, is topped with a fresco called The Struggle of Mankind to Know Real History. Although on a much lesser scale, there is something about the experience of looking up to see robed figures among clouds and blue sky that brings the mind immediately to the Sistine Chapel. And for some reason, like pandas and Nutella, no one can resist painted ceilings. Don't know why, but it is a fact. Further down is the Theological Hall, another insanely beautiful room, which is lined with various globes from throughout history. For a kid who spent most of his childhood memorizing state capitals and staring at maps, the Hall is somewhat of a nerd Mecca. If the library offers a quintessentially historic, old-fashioned experience, the Museum of Miniatures in the building across the square provides perhaps the exact opposite. A decidedly avant-garde collection, the museum amounts to nothing more than its name suggests –- a museum full of tiny things. Siberian artist Anatoly Konyenko, who's in the Guinness Book of World Records for creating the smallest book in the world, has crafted a series of pieces that require either a microscope or a magnifying glass to be seen. No small task (pun intended), considering the amount of detail that graces each tiny portrait of a famous historical figure or miniscule replica of a famous painting. His most impressive works are his freakishly small sculptures. Hunched over a microscope for the first time, you can't help but gasp when your eyes focus on a caravan of camels strolling nonchalantly through the eye of a needle or a train barreling down a strand of human hair. The artist cleverly combines awe-inspiring craftsmanship with a subtle sense of humor, most evident when he places his sculptures into the hands (or is it pincers?) of insects. Ever see an ant holding a pair of scissors or a flea wearing golden horseshoes? See it once, and you will definitely be telling your friends to go check it out. Finish your excursion to Strahov Monastery by walking to the edge of the hill, which overlooks Prague Castle and the rest of the city. There is arguably no better place to see the spires of Prague in all their glory. Remember, Prague is more than fried-cheese sandwiches, marionettes made in China, and bread dumplings. Take a trip off the beaten path. Strahov Monastery isn't a bad first choice.  Nicholas DeRenzo is in his third year majoring in history and Slavic studies at Boston College. He is from Tampa, Florida.• This article first appeared in The Prague Wanderer, a web magazine produced by students at New York University in Prague |
Article added on Tue 13th Mar, 2007 [last updated Fri 4th Dec, 2009]Share this page 
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