New Italian favorite in Prague 6
"Originality is nothing but judicious imitation. The most original writers borrowed one from another." Voltaire
Kogo in Slovanský dům was once one of our favorite restaurants. Eight years ago, we were there just about every week. We still like it once in a while, but these days, it's just too expensive to be a regular habit. Our current favorite is Osteria da Clara.
The guy lived in Italy for many years. Now, he lives across the street from the restaurant. He's happy with his new neighbor. As if this information wasn't enough to entice me, he added that former Kogo people were working there. And it was not expensive. We invited a couple of friends to join us -- Jersey Girl and J. Mirellie took over the space vacated by Monsoon, an Asian restaurant I always wanted to try but never did. To be honest, the high prices put me off.
The style of Mirellie's two dining areas reminded me a little of Kogo's café in Slovanský dům and their other restaurant, L'Angolo by Kogo. The rooms are filled with browns and beiges, familiar cylindrical lamp shades, and dark wood floors.Some of the furniture was held over from Monsoon -- but it was nice stuff. Very comfortable chairs.A former Kogo waiter knew us as regulars from back in the day. We got a big smile. Or maybe V did. She asked him if there was a connection between the restaurants, but he said no. They were on their own.
We started with a few of beers. They don't have the greatest options. We had .3 liter glasses of Krušovice Mušketýr (30 CZK). The stemmed, gold-rimmed glasses were classy, but like Kogo, they don't have larger ones. The only other beers offered are Heineken (40 CZK) and Claustahler (45 CZK).
Jersey Girl went for the rucola and artichoke salad (130 CZK).
Pretty basic. Great if you are into artichokes. Not a lot more I can say.
J got a bowl of the fish soup (90 CZK).
He called it "hearty" and "well-stocked with fish." There were also a few mussels thrown in. He said he liked it, but thought it could use a little more pepper.
The other soups were only 50-60 CZK. D, an Internet foodie friend wrote me to say that he really liked the Minestrone. He added that he thought they should use a better bread for the bruschetta. But overall, he was pleased with the place.
We decided to share some red wine and ordered a bottle of 2005 Rinaldone dell'Osa, a Morellino de Scansano, which comes from southern Tuscany (460 CZK).
Yes, we had red with seafood.
It was a dry, crisp little wine. Nothing to write home about, but we all enjoyed it.
For a main course, V got her Kogo favorite -- linguine with half a lobster, shrimp, mussels and zucchini (245 CZK).
She liked it just as much as the Kogo version. The biggest difference? Kogo's costs 490 CZK.
The linguine was quite flavorful. On the other hand, I had a bite of the lobster's claw and thought it was over-cooked -- a problem often found in Kogo's lobster. V assured me the tail, which she did not share, was much better.
I did something similar to V -- ordering my Kogo favorite -- risotto ai frutti di mare (185 CZK).
It was a big, filling portion. It looked very similar to the one from across town. But I have to say Kogo's (295 CZK) is usually much better.
Mirellie's didn't have the right, chewy consistency of proper risotto. Unfortunately, the bands of calamari were too chewy, and the shrimp were on the tough side. Overcooked.
The mussel shells were a reasonable size, but the meat within was microscopic. I wished for more fresh parsely. In summary, I'll try something else next time.
Jersey Girl had a Margherita pizza (99 CZK).She liked it, but said a recent trip to Naples lowered her opinion of every other pizza on the planet. She was dreaming of the thinner, crispier, more ethereal crusts.
Unfortunately, after sitting a while on the table, the slice had lost all crispness. JG assured me it was much better right after it arrived fresh from the oven.
J ordered the tagliatelle alla matriciana (145 CZK). He enjoyed it but was surprised by its spicy kick.
We were all too full for dessert. The meal ended coffee and then complimentary glasses of limoncello came to our table. Sweet enough finish.
Service was impeccable throughout. Very friendly. Very efficient. It may well have been because the waiter knew us. It did feel like seeing an old friend. So, I can't say if others will have the same experience, service-wise.
The meal wasn't perfect, but on the value for money side, it's hard to beat.
J even said he's going to replace Aromi with Mirellie as his favorite Italian dining spot. That's quite an endorsement, considering he lives walking distance to Aromi.
We'll be back, as well. V is in Prague 6 quite often, and it would be a great place to stop for lunch.
Yes, Mirellie appears to judiciously borrow quite a lot from Kogo in terms of modern style, and Mediterranean cooking. But Mirellie's prices are more like Kogo's circa 2001. Imitating all that in 2009 makes this restaurant something of an original.
Mirellie Mediterranean Restaurant
V.P. Čkalova 14
Prague 6 - Dejvice
Tel. +420 222 959 999
February 26, 2009
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