Pivovar Luziny – Taking the Prague Microbrew Experience to a Whole New Level

Prague TV recently paid a visit to Pivovar Luziny, located in Prague’s western suburbs – and came back pleasantly surprised.

Home to a cornucopia of panelaks, Luziny is deceiving at first sight. It looms into perspective as the Yellow Line metro raises itself from the sub-terrain, and for a few brief seconds offers you a marvellous view of Prague’s un-gentrified heart. As the buildings whizz by in shades of grey, interspersed with pockets of yellow sunshine and green trees, the train comes to a screeching halt – and the journey to the microbrewery begins.

Upon exiting the metro, you must walk up the stairs to the formerly statuesque – and the only – shopping mall in Luziny. Toward the back of the building, and in an unassuming corner, lies the brewery. Spread over three floors, the establishment offers an air-conditioned non-smoking interior, and on the lower level an outdoor summer terrace is built into the heart of the panelakia that surrounds it. As you make your way through, it is hard to ignore the giant vats and tanks of beer that surround you, still in their high-school scientific experiment stages.

Pivovar Luziny offers a mean selection of beers that bear testament to the quality and innovation that the Czech microbrew industry has embraced over the past few years. We started off with their staple, a Svetly Lezak (Award for best lager beer brewed since 2014): a light, hoppy drinkable beer with hints of malt that went down more than easily on a hot day. The next on the menu was the slightly stronger amber ale, the Jantarovy Lezak. On first taste, it offered a honeydew sweetness, which became progressively bitter and hoppy as the caramel flavour kicked in.

Two beers in, head brewer Michal Novotny came out for a chat. Accompanied by Adélka Smetáková, his apprentice (and one of the few women in this trade), Novotny was all ears for our questions and made sure we were served his signature Polotmavy Special next. Semi-dark, with a full-bodied taste of malt and dried hops, Novotny’s brew is easily one of the best dark beers in the country and is up for some major awards this year.

The motley crew at our table gathered the attention of owner and founder Vilem Moravec, who walked over to see what the commotion was about. Ever the gracious host, Moravec sat down to tell us the story behind the brewery and his many plans for the future. Noting that this was the first brewery in the country built into a shopping mall, he was a treasure trove of information about his own retail ventures and his plans to bottle and distribute the varied brews across the city – and the world. And, before he left, the next beer, the 6.1% strong Beerstriker, was upon us. This was brewed especially for Czech hard-rockers DOGA, with whom Moravec is a close friend. Creating a beer for them was the perfect tribute. The golden beer has a high yeast content, and is as bitter as it’s full.

Pivovar Luziny is not just all about the beer. With our heads in a tizzy after four large beers in less than an hour, food was essential. In the heat, we only managed to sample two of the fifty plus menu offerings: the freshly fried potato crisps (accompanied by an assortment of dips) and the steak Tartar, both of which were exceptional. Moravec described the food as a new-age take on tired Czech classics, and honest in its use of quality ingredients.

Moravec and Novotny are perfectly aware of their surroundings, and what’s on offer at the microbrewery is both value-for-money and a great opportunity to sample some innovative new cuisine and beers – things that rarely go hand-in-hand in Prague these days. With beers priced between 31 and 35 kc for a half-litre, and mains that hover between 150 and 200 kc, it’s hard to see where Pivovar Luziny can go wrong with their seasonal ales and menus.

Find out more or book yourself a tour of the brewery at www.pivovar-luziny.cz

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