Trip to Třeboň
PTV takes you to Southern Bohemia, on a cyclist's getaway
Sure, Prague is a lovely city and its majesty impresses all those who behold her, but wait - there's more to this cute little land called Czechia than the single shiny jewel in the center.
Many travelers and residents might be wondering just what can be accomplished within the time restraints of a two-day weekend. Well, the answer is much. Just 144 kilometers south of Mother Praha lies a quaint and relaxing town called Třebon.
Located smack dab in the middle of the area so aptly named Třebonsko ("Třebonland"), Třeboň offers you the beauty of the old Czech lands both in terms of architecture and of nature.
This UNESCO-protected area encompasses seemingly endless trails, forests and most notably rybníky (fish ponds). In fact Třeboň itself lies on the banks of two of the largest ponds in the area, Svět ("World") and Opatovický.
Třeboň's main commodity is carp or kapr, which is a delicacy in the Czech Republic, especially around Christmas time. Although carp are bottom feeders - which is where most people feel they should remain for their entire existence - Czech carp is surprisingly tasty and highly recommended while in Třeboň.
Třeboň and the surrounding area is really best suited to a biking holiday. Whether you go just for the weekend or for longer, it's perfect.
The main reason is that it's flat, thus you can bike for miles with minimal pain. The trails run through the forests and around the ponds, keeping you cool as you go. Another way of staying cool is, of course, to stop and sample some of the local beer, Bohemia Regent, at one of the many trailside pubs. Also, swimming is permitted in certain lakes, for the ultimate cool-down.
In a nutshell, if you're looking for a place to get out of town then Třeboň is an easy and affordable option. Below you'll find all the basic practical information and some tips on how to spend your time.
One key tip is to book ahead - during high season (spring, summer and fall) it's very difficult to get a room. Having said that, the town itself still seems only mildly touristy, since the majority of visitors are out biking.
How To Get There
Take a train from Prague's Hlavní nádraží station to Třeboň lazně, changing at Veselí nad Lužnicí. Most days of the week, trains leave at 9:17am, 2:17pm, 3:17pm, 4:17pm, 5:17pm and 6:17pm, and the journey takes a little over two-and-a-half hours. See the IDOS site for more detailed timetable information.
For a list of accommodation options, in English, see the official Třeboň site.
Ryby Bašta, on the main square, offers great dishes for extremely reasonable prices.
Recommended items include:
- Carp nuggets lightly fried tempura style with a soy honey garlic sauce (you won’t believe it's carp)
- Pike fillets baked with ginger and lemon
- Side order of dill cabbage salad
For the lighter budget try the back terrace of the hotel U Bilého Konička for a Czech-style mixed grill for only 65 Kč.
Different bike trails place different demands on your time but if you're looking for an all-day trek, try the southeast loop to Třeboň.
The total journey is about 50 kilometers, running south toward chlum u Třeboně, back up north around Rožemberk, then back to Třeboň.
The route takes you through lush forests, past open meadows, dozens of fish ponds and lakes and some charming villages.
One village in particular, Lutová, has a perfectly placed hospoda (bar) ideal for a pit stop.
Another highly recommended stop is the old sand quarry called Cep. The water is refreshingly cool and the sand makes you think you're at the beach. This is a great place for a sandwich and a swim.
There's also a pub, U jouzů, where you can pick up more water. The total journey takes between five and eight hours depending on how long you stop to admire the incredible scenery.
Here's the exact route:
- Head out around the lake Svět and take route 122 south (Once you cross the main highway you’ll hit Cep)
- Continue on 122 until you hit 1010
- Head north on 1010 through Lutová until you hit 1035
- Follow 1035 north until you hit 1034, which takes you back into Třeboň
The Velká Cykloturistiká map, available in Třeboň and costing 80 Kč, is also highly recommended.
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