Beyond the commercialized tourist areas of the city lies Vyšehrad, the lesser known of Prague's two historic castles.

Vyšehrad, which means "castle on the heights," provides more than just brilliant architecture and history; its placement atop a hill also offers great views of the rooftops and bridges of Prague.

The hilltop castle dates back to the beginning of the 10th century, when King Vratislav used the area for his royal palace. Only a half-century later, the Přemyslid rulers moved to the Prague Castle, leaving behind Vyšehrad.

Today, not much of the original castle remains but the parks surrounding the church and cemetery make for an easy escape from city noise.

The first building on the path is the Rotunda of St. Martin (Rotunda sv. Martina), the oldest complete Romanesque building in Prague. Each evening a mass, open to the public, is held within. Though it's been restored since, the building dates back to the 11th century and still displays most of its original architecture.

Positioned in the center of the grounds is the restored Church of St. Peter and St. Paul (kostel sv. Petra a Pavla). Dating back to the 11th century, the impressive church overlooks the Vltava river and has been restored three times, the latest being a neo-Gothic renovation. The interior of the church is lined with mosaics, art-nouveau paintings and legends.

Next to the church is the Vyšehrad cemetery, where some of the country's best-known painters, writers and composers are laid to rest. Among them are composers Antonín Dvořák and Bedřich Smetana and artist Mikoláš Aleš. Surrounding the memorials is an elaborate Italianate arcade complete with monuments.

The paths through the parks are also lined with benches, perfectly placed to allow for prime Prague viewing. A few coffee shops gathered near the entrance of the park also offer outdoor seating and views.

Ashley N. Knierim