Prvni Pivni Tramway

Prvni Pivni Tramway

End of 11 Tram, Spořilov Michle
Prague 4



The end of the line is not always skid row, at least not if you follow the end of the 11 line to Spořilov. This outer district of Prague 4 is a pleasant, middle-class suburb where prosperous Czechs have escaped from the city center for more spacious flats and more greenery. Accordingly, the pubs have a slightly more pleasant feel than those that you will pass by in Nusle and Michle, where zombie-men and washed-up whores guzzle pivo and wait on death.

Prvni Pivni Tramway is a much more pleasantly colorful place. Situated right off the turnaround along the tramlines the little concrete building is full of bric-a-brac and local color. Sit down with a Guiness (47 kč) or one of the other sixteen beers they serve and take it in. The trams roll by just outside the window. The waiter wears a Black Death Vodka t-shirt that says “Drink in Peace” on the back. Other alcohol advertisements vie for space with badly drawn but humorous depictions of Czech life painted on the walls.

I found a local girl and she was happy to take me through the menu. I chose some pickled hermelin (43 kč) and Moravian Smoked Meet (36 kč) to start as well as a cold Gambrinus 10% (16.50 kč,) that was nicely poured. The hermelin was soft and pleasantly funky and the smoked meet, served with a dollop of mustard, went well with the beer. From the considerable menu I chose a Chicken Steak, stuffed with spicy peppers, cheese and ham (89 kč). My local girl licked her lips and picked the Beefsteak stuffed with spicy peppers (194 kč). Both of these dishes were good, hearty eating and I’d bet that the whole menu is solid, with the sole caveat that I wouldn’t be ordering seafood at Prvni Pivni Tramway, though it is on the menu. The food is utilitarian but tasty.

The Who was playing when I walked in but as the night went on and the beer kept coming amidst the roar of the tram the music became Czech heavy metal, which makes me snicker to myself and drink harder, both of which didn’t seem to bother my local girl. When my bladder became full of this I stumbled past the two flashing gambling machines and found in the bathroom simple drawings of vaginas all over the wall, with women’s names next to it. True class.