Taste Holešovice

Prague's neighborhood just across the river is abound with culinary pleasures. You just need to know where to look...

Reference Map
Our shopping trip begins at Obchod kořenim, čajem, vinem, just up from the Vltavska metro station, or a one block walk from Strossmayerovo Naměstí tram stop (trams 3, 5, 8, 14, 17, 23, and 26).

A very easy place to miss, this small dry goods shop has a nice selection of imported Mexican, Asian, Indian, and, most notably, Italian imported staples, as well as dried herbs, teas, and wines. The owners are friendly and knowledgeable and have been known to share a glass of wine or two(or three) with neighborhood patrons.
Obchod Korenim

DelicatesseContinuing up Milady Horákové street we take a left on Veverkova and continue to the end of the street. Take a right on Kostelní and you will see, midway up the block, the auburn doors of Delicatesse. This bake-shop fills many wholesale orders throughout the city, and has a tiny storefront shop offering fresh quiches, pastries, sandwiches, and arguably, the best croissant, and pain-au-chocolate your likely to find outside of Paris. Quiches range from 89kč to 99kč for a 300gr. quiche to 59kč for 130gr.

DelicatesseIf you live in the neighborhood, it is worth getting up a little early to catch the croissants as they come out of the oven.

The sandwiches (89kč -105kč). are a bit pricey and not very notable, but the quiche is another matter. Sizable and surprisingly affordable, they make a quick and healthy summer meal for two. Thankfully, they are slightly undercooked and after being warmed in the oven the crust and filling are the ideal consistency. Serve with a green salad, and a crisp chilled Pinot and forget about doing the dishes.

Ovoce ZeleninaContinue up Kostelní until you come to Kamenická. Take a right on Kamenická and cross over to the left side of the street. One block up, across from Pizzeria Capri, is one of Prague's best kept secrets, and the answer to any vegetarians prayers.

A common gripe by foodies in Prague is the lack of available fresh herbs and often pig-feed quality produce available in the larger grocery stores. This small ovoce zelinina (fruit and vegetable shop) has some of the finest quality and varied selection of produce your correspondent has seen outside of the larger wholesale markets in the suburbs of Prague. Their selection of fresh herbs shames the likes of Fruit de France in terms of both quality, quantity and price. Fresh basil, parsley, cilantro(coriander leaf), thyme, sage, mint, and rosemary can be found most days with some other occasional surprises. The owner seems to have a penchant for selecting the best and freshest items from the wholesale markets, and if you are planning a party or big dinner and are looking for something special, he will often order a small quantity for you if your nice. Make sure to look outside as many of the best, ripest deals can be found on the street.

Another excellent market is the small Vietnamese vegetable stand at 39 Milade Hrakové. Tucked inside a residential building's passage way, this small market has a great selection and exceptional quality. Treats from Vietnam are also available, such as incredibly spicey and flavorful chili peppers. Vietnamese style spinach, some of the best fruit and herbs in the city, and very reasonable prices make this stand a must.

Potraviny Pro Zdravi Next door is the Potraviny Pro Zdravi, which carries the "Country Life" line of organic and macrobiotic dry goods. A favorite is the Soyove Karbanatek, a round , soy-burger-like, patty it makes great summer sandwiches. This shop has a range of oils and organic soaps and a good, if slightly expensive, selection of teas. The back has nice gift ideas for your crunchy friends, or when buying the housewarming gift for someone you don't know. The service is friendly, knowledgeable, and accommodating.

VyletnaNow that the shopping is done, walk back down to Kostelní and turn right. Continue up to the Narodnií Technickè Muzeum and enter Letna Park. Turn right and walk down until you come to the Tennis courts. There you can reward yourself with one of the finest pours of Pilsner Urquell on this side of the river, at Výletna. One of the few pubs in Holeševice boasting an air compressor instead of CO2, this is how Pilsner Urquell is meant to be drunk. This newly renovated hospoda has been taken over by a young, experienced and friendly staff, who pay quite a bit more attention to service than the former owners. With Gazpacho (40kc), 10 degree Krušovice (20 kc), and an assortment of Czech hospoda standbys done simply and well, Vyletna is an ideal place to finish your afternoon shopping, and start your evening.

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