Vienna

Forget the stereotypes.

There's more to the Austrian capital than stuffy museums, expensive cafés, and men in feathered hats.

With a multicultural population of around 1.7 million, Vienna is a vibrant European capital, chock full of things to see and places to go.

The city's imperial past remains a large part of its identity, and its historic center, like Prague's, is a UNESCO-protected World Heritage site.

But Vienna doesn't seem to have been hamstrung by its heritage, with imaginative new uses found for historical sites, and contemporary art decorating ancient buildings.

During our trip, for instance, the Hofburg imperial palace was the venue for a gay pride event. Right Said Fred played live in a thunderstorm.

It's hard to imagine Prague Castle staging something similar.

The strong crown, Schengen, and high-speed trains also mean it's never been easier for visitors based in the Czech Republic to get to Vienna.


GETTING THERE
Introduced in 2005, České drahy's SuperCity Pendolino service means the Austrian capital is little more than a four-hour ride away, and offers levels of comfort rarely experienced on Czech railways.

The downside, of course, is that Pendolino tickets are 200 CZK more expensive than regular ČD services, but group discounts mean the journey is still surprisingly affordable for larger parties.

For a party of four, for instance, a group ticket costs 3,017 crowns each way -- just under 755 crowns each.


ACCOMMODATION
We stayed at the Hotel Kugel, in the quaintly bohemian Spittelberg district, where a double room with canopy bed, plus breakfast, cost 110 euros (around 2,790 CZK) per night.

A great option to avoid high hotel costs is to stay in a private apartment. Try AirBNB for great deals.

SIGHTSEEING
Located just off Mariahilferstrasse, Vienna's main shopping street, the Kugel is also well located for MuseumsQuartier Wien, an impressive agglomeration of galleries, workspaces, cafés and, of course, museums.



Combining converted historical buildings with purpose-built contemporary spaces, the MQ has a wealth of attractions for anyone interested in modern art and design.

Maria-Theresien-Platz, across the street from the MuseumsQuartier, offers a more traditional side to the city and begins the magnificent spread of buildings that make up the Hofburg.



Straddling the Ringstrasse, which circles Vienna's old town, this huge complex also houses major museums dedicated to natural history (Naturhistorisches Museum) and fine art (Kunsthistorisches Museum), the national theatre (Burgtheater), the national library (Österreichische Nationalbibliothek), the imperial treasury (Schatzkammer), the current Austrian president's offices and a variety of other buildings, including the world famous Spanische Hofreitschule (Spanish Riding School).

Beyond the Hofburg lies the center of Vienna's immaculately restored old town, the Innere Stadt.

Among the pedestrianized shopping streets, the main landmark here is Stephansdom (St. Stephen's Cathedral), whose Gothic tower and patterned roof are among the city's most recognizable sights.



Outside the Ring, but still within easy walking distance of the center are the Secession building and the nearby market, the Naschmarkt -- both of which have to be seen to be believed.

Crowned with a dome of golden laurel leaves, the Secession, an Art Nouveau exhibition space, was a statement of intent from a group of radical artists who'd broken away from the Austrian establishment.



At the time, its radical geometric design was described as "a cross between a greenhouse and a blast furnace"; today, it's a popular attraction, and widely regarded as the Jugendstil ("Young Art") movement's most prominent symbol.

The Naschmarkt, across the road, ranks among the world's greatest food markets, offering an overwhelming array of produce from around the world.



Where else could you find four different types of hummus (regular, chili, curry, wasabi), a stall dedicated entirely to vinegars, and exotica such as jackfruit and dried strawberries?

On Saturdays, there's also a large flea market.

Only a short walk from the Naschmarkt, the Karlskirche (St. Charles' Church) provides the unexpected highlight of our trip.

Completed in 1737, the church's unusual design incorporates a large dome and two Roman-style columns.

Inside, the church's frescoes were undergoing restoration at the time, and while that work continued, a lift had been installed, allowing visitors to reach a scaffolding viewing platform 35 meters above the ground.



From the lift, you can climb some (slightly wobbly) stairs for an awe-inspiring view of the artwork within the cupola...



...and a heart-stopping look down at the pews far below.



From Karlskirche, it's possible to walk to the Belvedere, a complex of palaces and gardens that now houses a major art museum, the Österreichische Galerie Belvedere.



The permanent collection, featuring the museum's most famous pieces, can be found in the Upper Belvedere (Oberes Belvedere) building, entrance to which costs 11 euros.

The ground floor features Baroque and Medieval pieces but the highlights are upstairs, in the museum's collection of paintings from the turn of the 20th century -- the star attraction being Gustav Klimt's Der Kuss (The Kiss).

If your appetite for imperial finery hasn't already been sated, you might also consider a trip out to the Schönbrunn palace.

Designed to rival Versailles, with gardens that contain the world's oldest zoo, is one of Vienna's biggest tourist attractions but we didn't have time to visit on this trip.


PARKS
When you're worn out by sightseeing, Vienna has plenty of green spaces where you can rest and recuperate.

On the other side of the Ringstrasse from the Hofburg, the small park outside the Rathaus (Town Hall) is a good place to relax, and plays host to a free outdoor film festival on summer evenings.

Also in the center, the Stadtpark ("City Park") is an ideal place to sit in a beer garden, sunbathe or stroll among the greenery and statues.



Across the Donaukanal waterway lies the Prater, a far larger public park.

To the north, the Wurstelprater amusement park offers a cheesy-but-fun collection of theme park rides, including the Wiener Riesenrad ferris wheel immortalized in The Third Man.



To the south, beyond exhibition grounds and a racecourse lies the Ernst-Happel-Stadion, the football stadium that staged the final of Euro 2008.

2012 MAJOR VIENNA EVENTS

ImPulsTanz

12 July - 12 August 2012

Europe’s biggest dance festival presents exciting performances on 13 stages across Vienna from 12 July: with magical voodoo, a scream, a dying swan and lots more besides. Check out the official website.

Music Film Festival at City Hall Square

30 June - 2 September 2012

Every summer, City Hall Square becomes a pulsating meeting point for classical fans and night owls – with lots to please the palate as well as free film shows.

"Fantastic" exhibition

7 June - 10 September 2012

The Leopold Museum shows the first comprehensive exhibition on the work of Austrian expressionist Rudolf Kalvach. Check out the official website.

MQ Summer of Fashion

14 June - 16 September 2012

The MuseumsQuartier dedicates itself to fashion this summer. The MQ Summer of Fashion starts on 14 June and ends in September with the MQ Vienna Fashion Week. Exhibitions, fashion shows, dance performances, photographic campaigns, fashion markets, parties, workshops and exclusive tours make fashion and experience and show its connections to art. Check out the official website.

Vienna Operetta Summer: Open-Air

3 July - 3 August 2012

Swinging melodies in the open air: Lehár’s "Land des Lächelns" (The Land of Smiles) and Beer’s "Polnische Hochzeit" (Polish Wedding) promise first-class entertainment this summer, both for aficionados of and newcomers to the genre.

Klimt and the Birth of Modernism in Vienna

In 2012 one of Austria's greatest painters would have celebrated his 150th birthday: Gustav Klimt (1862–1918). His paintings, in particular The Kiss – one of the world's best-known images – are rightly seen as epitomizing the spirit of optimism that heralded the dawn of the modernist era.

With 24 pieces by the artist, Vienna's Belvedere is home to the world's largest Klimt collection. There are also major works on display at the Leopold Museum, the Wien Museum and the Albertina. Contemporary documents and other exhibits at the MAK and the Austrian National Library reveal yet more about Klimt and his life.

During 2012, Klimt's anniversary year, visitors to Vienna can experience how the artist and his Wiener Moderne contemporaries shape our thoughts and lives to this day, and discover why this era has lost nothing of its allure over time.

Elisabeth

from September 5, 2012

The most successful German-language musical of all times celebrates its 20th anniversary in the Raimund Theater from 5 September: "Elisabeth" tells the gripping story of Austria’s attractive Empress Sisi. Check out the official site.

OTHER TIPS
• Under Austrian law, most stores have limited opening hours on Saturdays and are closed on Sundays. Try to get any shopping done midweek

• For great beer and good Austrian food, try the 7 Stern Bräu brewpub at Siebensterngasse 19 A, not far from the MuseumsQuartier

• Tram tickets must be bought in advance, typically from a trafika (newsagent/tobacconist)