Mikuláš night in Prague: why a devil and an angel come for the kids

On the evening of 5 December, central Prague gets strange. A tall figure in bishop's robes and a mitre walks down a cobbled street with an angel in white at his side, and behind them a devil rattles chains and drags a sack. Children go very quiet. Parents take photos. This is Mikulášská nadílka, the St Nicholas Eve visit.

It is one of the best free pieces of street theatre in the Czech year, and it happens in plain sight. All you have to do is be in the Old Town after dark with your eyes open.

Who is who

Mikuláš is St Nicholas, the fourth-century bishop of Myra remembered for his generosity. In Czechia he turns up as a bishop with a staff and a long white beard.

The angel (anděl) is the gentle one. She hands out the treats and says kind things.

The devil (čert) is the showman: horns, black clothes, fur or rags, a rattling chain and a sack for carrying off naughty children. He is played by volunteers, often teenagers or young adults.

They work as a team. Mikuláš asks the questions, the angel hands out sweets, and the devil threatens, with varying levels of enthusiasm. The good-cop, bad-cop structure is the whole point: a child can be frightened a little, rescued by the angel and rewarded in the same two minutes.

What happens at a visit

The children line up. Mikuláš opens a big book that, we are told, lists every deed of the past year, and asks whether they have been good. Each child recites a poem or sings a song, and that earns a reward.

Good children get a bag or basket of sweets, apples, oranges, nuts and sometimes gingerbread. Naughty ones are offered a lump of coal or a potato, and the devil makes a show of grabbing them. These days the "punishment" is a joke and the child is handed back unharmed.

Parents sometimes book a home visit through a local organiser. Schools, nurseries and community groups run their own. Costumed visits to offices and workplaces are common too, which means adults can end up on the receiving end. Expect to be asked whether you have been good.

Why 5 December

The visit happens on the eve of 6 December, the feast day of St Nicholas. The tradition is Catholic in origin and spread across Central Europe. In Austria and Bavaria the devil figure has a cousin called Krampus, and the Czech čert is a close relative. It has nothing to do with Christmas presents, which come from Ježíšek, not Mikuláš.

The shape of a Mikuláš evening

Think of it as three acts. First, the build-up: from late afternoon the trios gather, costumes are checked and sacks are filled with fruit, nuts and sweets. Second, the rounds: nurseries, family flats, cafés and the street, in an order that organisers plan carefully because there are only so many evenings and only so many devils. Third, the aftermath: tired children, scattered peel and, in many pubs, a devil off duty with a beer, horns pushed up on his forehead.

Parents sometimes cast a quiet vote on what the sack contains. Some make a deal with the trio in advance about which behaviour issues to mention, such as not eating vegetables or not wanting to go to bed. The visitors take notes. It is an entertaining way for a family to say "listen to your parents" without a parent saying it.

Where to see it in Prague

On the evening of 5 December, costumed groups often walk through the Old Town and nearby streets, and some venues and organisations hold their own events. You do not need a ticket to watch the walking groups. Try the streets around Old Town Square. Formats change from year to year, so check the official Prague website for listings.

Adults in devil costumes commit fully, and some visitors find the scene startling. If you are with a nervous small child, step back and let them watch from a distance. Most devils are good at reading the room and will soften if a child looks truly afraid.

If you get pulled in

Say yes. If a bishop-and-devil trio turns up at a restaurant or office party, smile, offer a short poem or song if asked, and accept the sweet. Nobody expects a perfect performance. If you are hosting, prepare small treats, and ask the visiting trio what they need in advance. Fruit, nuts and sweets in a small bag are standard.

If you are a parent from abroad, a few things help. Tell the children in advance who is coming, since the devil is more fun when it is expected. Have a short poem or song ready. And decide beforehand whether you want the devil to threaten or only to rattle the chains; organisers are used to that kind of request.

Frequently asked questions

Who is Mikuláš in Czechia?

St Nicholas, a bishop of the fourth century. He visits children on 5 December with an angel and a devil.

Is Mikuláš the same as Santa Claus?

No. Mikuláš visits on 5 December and tests the children's behaviour. Czech Christmas presents come from Ježíšek on 24 December.

Do Czech children get coal?

Naughty ones are threatened with a lump of coal or a potato, but nearly all end up with sweets.

Is 6 December a public holiday?

No. It is the feast and name day of Mikuláš, but a normal working day.

Where can I see Mikuláš in Prague?

Costumed groups often walk through the Old Town on the evening of 5 December. Check the official Prague website for listings.

On 5 December, walk through the Old Town after dark. Buy a bag of mandarins and nuts for a friend's child, and if you hear a chain rattle behind you, play along and promise to be good.