
Kolkovna Revisited
Restaurant Review: The quality falls and the prices rise at a former Old Town favorite
The food was way above pub average, combining Czech classics with more modern fare, and, for the Old Town, all priced within reason. The beer, Pilsner Urquell, was from the tank - un-pasteurized and never kegged, with no carbon dioxide - and also affordable by the standards of the center.
On subsequent visits though, the quality has fallen off and the prices have gone up. Beer now costs 37 CZK, which, even for the Old Town, is expensive, and on our visits, was off temperature - a little warm - and had obviously been sitting at the bar for a while and then topped off to be brought to the table. This is a huge no-no in the better pubs.
On a few of our visits the service was also lacking. Recently, we waited 15 minutes for someone to take our drink orders even though there were nearly eight servers hanging around the bar and only about three or four tables in the middle of a quiet afternoon lunch shift.
The zelňačka (cabbage soup with bits of kielbasa) was served tepid. The waiter asked if we'd like bread with the soup, to which we said yes, only to find a charge of 40 CZK on our bill at the end of the meal. The guláš was wholly unremarkable, with a few forlorn cubes of meat floating in a watery, flavorless broth with fistfuls of marjoram. Even the knedlíky were poor. The Moravský vrabec, a classic Czech dish of cubes of roasted pork with potato knedlíky and homemade špekový knedlík (with bits of bacon and dark bread) was completely flavorless and served with two kinds of zelí (stewed cabbage) that tasted like they came straight from the can. One person in our party had the roasted salmon which was so overcooked as to be inedible.
Every restaurant can have a bad day but too many bad days means that there's something very wrong in the kitchen. Perhaps the staff at Kolkovna has become complacent with their success, but the end result is an overpriced, unremarkable restaurant in a city that has a burgeoning food scene, where it's increasingly easier to find a good meal with good service for the same prices.
READER'S COMMENTS
-
St. Patricks Day 2020 – Prague Celebrations Prague.TV - Living Like a Local!
We all go green .... let's celebrate together Ireland's national holiday in Prague!
-
Manifesto plans a second market in Smíchov Raymond Johnston - Prague.TV (Foto: Manifesto)
Prague will have another popup urban oasis in an underused area
-
Manifesto Market dresses in all colors for Easter Manifesto - Prague.TV
For Easter Sunday and Monday, we can promise lots of smiles
-
Czech beer consumption rises again Raymond Johnston - Prague.TV (Foto: fotolia)
Both consumption and production are up after a brief slump
-
Staropramen celebrates 150 years Raymond Johnston - Prague.TV (Foto: Staropramen FB)
The brewery plans an anniversary beer, new labels and a book
-
Two Prague restaurants retain Michelin stars Raymond Johnston - Prague.TV (Foto: Casa de Carli)
The overall number of listed restaurants dropped down to 31
-
Manifesto Market Prague is back (What's Up Prague) Prague.TV - Living Like a Local!
The Manifesto Market is back. Come and join Alex to see what the market has to offer in the new season.
-
Jama celebrates 25 years Raymond Johnston - Prague.TV (Foto: Jama FB)
The downtown bar will be having a big party to mark a quarter century
-
Old bank turned into a restaurant in Prague (HONEST GUIDE) Honza Mikulka & Janek Rubeš
Two cool restaurant tips from the Honest Guide Prague
-
Obecní dům to operate Šlechtova restaurace Raymond Johnston - Prague.TV (Foto: praha.eu)
The landmark building in Stromovka park should reopen in early 2020
Authentic Italian cuisine in Prague
Best Irish Pub in Prague
Greek bistro & food market
Destination for foodlovers
Donuts made with love and fantasy
Club meets kitchen concept

Prague’s # 1 source for Czech news in English…
.png)
Digital lifestyle magazine platform promoting life in Prague.