How a Czech pub works: the unordered beer and the slip on the table

Your first Czech beer arrives before you have finished your sentence. Twenty minutes later another one appears at your elbow, and you did not ask for it. The waiter is not being pushy. That is simply how a Czech pub works, and once you know the rules it is one of the easiest ways to spend an evening.

The logic is old and sensible. A pub is a place to sit, and the waiter's job is to keep you comfortable while you do. The system runs on small signals, a nod, a hand over a glass, a figure said aloud, and everybody understands them.

Walk in, sit down

In a casual pub (hospoda or pivnice) you seat yourself. Find a free table. If the tables are shared, as they often are in a traditional place with long wooden benches, ask je tu volno? (is this seat free?) and sit. Say dobrý večer as you do. A rezervováno sign means the table is booked, and stálí hosté means it is kept for regulars.

In a more formal restaurant, wait by the door for staff to show you to a table.

The words tell you what you are walking into. A hospoda is a pub, a pivnice is more of a beer hall, a hostinec is a traditional inn and a restaurace is a restaurant that happens to serve beer. The first three lean towards beer and conversation, the last towards a meal.

Ordering

The waiter comes to you. In most traditional pubs you do not order at the bar. The first order is usually drinks: jedno pivo, prosím. Ask for the food menu if it has not arrived (můžu dostat jídelní lístek?).

Beer comes in half-litre glasses by default. Ask for a malé (small) glass if you want less. The waiter keeps count with pen marks on a slip of paper left on your table. Do not lose it, because the tab is built from those marks.

The next beer comes by itself

In many pubs, when your glass is nearly empty, another one arrives. If you do not want it, say ne, děkuji, put your hand over the glass, or lay the beer mat on top. If you do want it, do nothing.

Paying

When you are done, catch the waiter's eye and say zaplatím, prosím (I would like to pay). The waiter will ask dohromady nebo zvlášť? (together or separately?). Answer, and the waiter totals your slip and tells you the amount.

Tip by rounding up or adding around 10 per cent, and say the figure you want to pay as you hand over the money. If the bill is a little under a round number and you say that number, the waiter gives change from it, and the tip is built in. Do not leave coins on the table, because it can look as if you forgot them.

Most pubs take cards, but some small ones are cash only. Check before you order and keep a little cash on you.

Check the bill

Read it before you pay, and check the beers against your slip. Some places charge for bread, sauces or extras that appeared on the table. Asking about them is normal.

Smoking

Smoking has been banned inside pubs and restaurants in Czechia since 31 May 2017. Smokers go to the pavement or a designated outdoor area, and some pubs have garden tables.

Manners

Say dobrý den when you come in and na shledanou when you leave. Toast with na zdraví and make eye contact. Keep the noise sensible, especially late in the evening. At a shared table you do not have to talk to strangers, but a nod is polite. Dogs are welcome in many traditional pubs, but ask first.

Pace and closing time

Nobody will hurry you. A table in a Czech pub is yours for the evening, and the waiter will not bring the bill until you ask. That also means it is on you to ask. Near closing time you may hear zavíráme (we are closing), which is your cue to order the last round and settle up. Kitchens often close earlier than the bar, so order food before the evening is far along.

What locals know

A waiter is assigned to a section, and the person who brought your first beer is the person who will take your bill. Wave to them, not to the first member of staff who walks past. Regulars sometimes have their own tables and their own rhythm, and a polite waiter will seat you elsewhere without making a fuss. If a beer arrives flat or warm, say so politely and ask for another. Complaints are normal and rarely taken personally.

A few snacks are worth knowing: utopenci (pickled sausages), nakládaný hermelín (marinated soft cheese) and fried cheese with tartare sauce are all pub classics and go well with beer.

Frequently asked questions

Do I order at the bar in a Czech pub?

Usually not. In traditional pubs the waiter comes to your table.

Why does the waiter keep bringing beer?

It is the standard system. A new beer arrives when yours is nearly empty. Say ne, děkuji or cover the glass if you do not want it.

How much should I tip in a Czech pub?

Round up or add around 10 per cent. Say the total you want to pay as you hand over the money.

Can I smoke in a Czech pub?

Not inside. Smoking has been banned in pubs and restaurants since 31 May 2017. Outdoor areas are the exception.

Can I split the bill?

Yes. When the waiter asks dohromady nebo zvlášť?, say zvlášť for separate bills.

Pick a pub that looks the part (wood, a long bar, a handwritten menu), sit at a free table, order one beer and one snack, and see how long it takes before someone offers you another. When you leave, say the total you want to pay, tip included.