Vysočany: where Prague's old factories became offices, flats and an arena

A generation ago, a visitor to Vysočany would have seen chimneys, rail sidings and workshops. Today, on the same ground, there are office towers, new apartment blocks and a large indoor arena that hosts concerts and hockey. Few Prague districts have changed their skyline as completely in so short a time.

Vysočany lies north-east of the centre in Prague 9, between Libeň and Prosek. Its identity was formed by industry, most famously by the engineering works that made trams, locomotives and machinery under various names through the twentieth century. When that economy faded, the factory land became some of the most valuable redevelopment space in the city. The older district survives in the middle, with its tenements, cafes and local shops, but the edges are new.

Three layers

The first layer is old Vysočany, around the historic centre of the district. You find tenement houses, small squares and a local feel that long predates the offices. The pace is slower than around the arena.

The second is the redeveloped industrial land, mostly near Českomoravská and the arena. Here you see glass office blocks, apartment complexes with names that sound like brands and wide new streets. The mood is modern and a little anonymous, and on a weekend it can feel empty.

The third is the panel and low-rise housing on the edges, built at different periods to house workers. These parts are practical and green in places, and they are served by trams and buses as well as the metro. For the kind of housing involved, our guide to Prague's panel-block estates is a useful companion.

The arena effect

The O2 arena is the district's best-known building. It hosts concerts, sports and large events, and on a big night thousands of people pour out of Českomoravská metro station. If you live nearby, expect crowds, noise and busier trams on event evenings. If you do not, you can plan a night out here with an easy metro ride home. Our guide to getting to the O2 arena covers the practical side.

For residents the effect is mixed. You get shops, restaurants and entertainment on your doorstep. You also get traffic and a rhythm of occasional peaks. Ask about the event calendar before you sign a lease in a building facing the arena.

Getting around

This is Vysočany's strongest card. Metro B crosses the district and takes you to the city centre in a short ride, with several stations in the district itself. Trams and buses cover the rest, and the main road network is close by for drivers. If you work in an office in Vysočany, you may even walk to work. If you work in the centre, the commute is predictable and short, which is a big part of why people live here. Our public transport tickets guide explains how to pay.

Living here

New-build apartments dominate the listings near the metro, and older flats in tenements and blocks fill the rest. We will not quote figures, because they move with the market. The more useful comparison is what you give up and gain: you gain transport, newness, services and often balconies. You give up some character and, in the newest parts, a sense of community.

When you view a new building, ask what is still under construction nearby. A development half-finished means years of cranes. Ask about the heating system, the service charges and whether the building has a parking space and a cellar. For an older flat, ask about noise from the tram line and from the main roads.

Daily life

You will find large supermarkets, pharmacies, medical centres and schools in the district. There are green spaces, particularly along the Rokytka stream valley and at the edges, though the district as a whole is more urban than leafy. Places to eat range from workplace lunch counters to neighbourhood restaurants, with the offices driving a busy weekday lunch trade. In the evening and at weekends, the new business streets are quieter than the old centre of the district.

It is a good district for people who commute outwards too. Several major employers have offices here, which means that a Vysočany flat can be walkable to work, a rare luxury in Prague.

Who it suits

Professionals who want a metro commute. Couples and small families who like newer buildings and modern amenities. Anyone working at the offices nearby. It is a weaker choice for people who want a historic atmosphere, a lively café-and-gallery street or a wide choice of independent shops. And if you dislike living near a major event venue, check the map before you fall for a view.

What to do this weekend

Ride metro B to Českomoravská, look at the arena from the outside and then walk back into the old district to see the mix. Have lunch, notice how many people are on the street and compare it with Libeň or Karlín. If you like the metro convenience but want more character, those two districts are your next stops.

Frequently asked questions

Is Vysočany near the centre?

Yes, by metro B it is a short ride to the centre.

What is Vysočany known for?

Its industrial past, its offices and the O2 arena.

Is it noisy near the arena?

Event nights bring crowds and traffic. Ask about the event calendar before renting nearby.