Prague's Jewish Quarter (Josefov): a respectful visit guide

Josefov, the old Jewish Quarter, is a small district of narrow streets between Old Town Square and the river, and it carries a great deal of weight. In a few hundred metres you pass a synagogue that dates from about 1270, a cemetery where gravestones are packed like crowded teeth, and a memorial with tens of thousands of names written on its walls. It is a place for slow looking, not for ticking off.

This guide explains what is there, how the sites are organised and how to visit with respect. For choosing between the individual museum sites, our Jewish Museum visitor guide goes further.

A short history

Jews have lived in Prague since the Middle Ages, and for long stretches they were confined to a walled area, whose streets and buildings still show it. In 1781 Emperor Joseph II issued the Toleration Patent, which eased restrictions, and the district was later named Josefov after him. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries a major redevelopment cleared most of the old slum-like quarter and replaced it with the Art Nouveau buildings of Pařížská Street. Only a handful of synagogues, the cemetery and the Jewish Town Hall survived.

During the Second World War the Nazi occupiers deported Prague's Jews, largely through the Terezín ghetto, and the great majority of the Jews of Bohemia and Moravia were murdered. For the wider context, see our guide to the Terezín memorial.

The main sites

The Jewish Museum in Prague manages several of the historic buildings, and a combined ticket covers most of them. The Old-New Synagogue is arranged separately, so check ticketing on the museum's website.

The Old-New Synagogue (Staronová synagoga). Built around 1270, it is often described as the oldest active synagogue in Europe. The Gothic vaulting is striking, and it is still a place of worship. Legend links it to Rabbi Löw and the Golem (the Golem legend), which belongs to folklore.

The Old Jewish Cemetery. Used from the 15th century until 1787, it holds many thousands of graves in a small space, layered one above another because Jews were not allowed to extend it. The stones lean at angles, and the effect is haunting. The path is narrow and often busy, so go early.

The Pinkas Synagogue. Its walls are inscribed with the names of Jewish victims from Bohemia and Moravia, tens of thousands in all. An upper floor shows drawings made by children in Terezín. It is a sobering place.

The Maisel, Klausen and Spanish synagogues. These host exhibitions on the history and culture of Prague's Jews, and the Spanish Synagogue has an elaborate Moorish-style interior. The Ceremonial Hall by the cemetery has its own exhibition.

A clock with backwards hands

Look up at the Jewish Town Hall, near the Old-New Synagogue. The clock tower has Hebrew numerals, and its hands run counter-clockwise, because Hebrew is read from right to left. Many visitors miss it. The Town Hall is not a museum, so you see it from the street, and it is a good starting point for a walk because it gives a sense of how compact the old quarter was.

Kafka and the district

Franz Kafka was born in the Old Town near Josefov, and the district runs through his life and writing (Franz Kafka in Prague). His work is not a tourist trail, but it adds depth to a walk.

How to visit respectfully

Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered. Men may be asked to cover their heads in synagogues and the cemetery, and paper caps are often available at the entrance. Some sites restrict photography, and flash is usually forbidden. Follow the staff's instructions, which can change.

Visitors sometimes leave small stones on graves, a Jewish tradition of remembrance. If you do, make it a quiet gesture, not a photo opportunity. Avoid selfies at memorials.

Planning the day

Check opening hours before you set out. The museum is closed on Saturdays and Jewish holidays, and the dates of the holidays change each year. Buy tickets from the official site if you can, and allow at least a couple of hours. Queues at the cemetery build up in the middle of the day.

Josefov is compact. Afterwards, walk along Pařížská Street, lined with Art Nouveau buildings and expensive shops, and loop back to Old Town Square (the Old Town guide and the astronomical clock are close by). The district as a place to live is covered in the Josefov neighbourhood guide. On a two-day visit it fits into day one (the two-day plan).

Eating nearby

The restaurants around Josefov's main streets are often geared to visitors. For a Czech meal, walk a few minutes into the Old Town. The Czech food guide says what to order.

Quick answers

Frequently asked questions

When is the Jewish Museum closed?

On Saturdays and Jewish holidays. Check the official site for current opening hours.

Do I need a head covering?

Men may be asked to cover their heads at some sites. Paper caps are often provided.

Can I take photographs?

Rules vary by site, and flash is usually not allowed. Follow the staff's instructions.

How long should I allow?

At least two hours for the main sites, more if you want to see them all.

Come with time and without hurry. This is a district to listen to, not just to look at.