Karlovy Vary from Prague: colonnades, hot springs and wafers by bus

Karlovy Vary looks like a wedding cake someone has poured into a valley. Pastel façades, cast-iron colonnades and a river through the middle: this is a place built for the slow business of taking the waters. A day here is mostly strolling, sipping and eating wafers.

It is also one of the easier day trips from Prague, provided you take the bus, bring comfortable shoes and do not expect the water to taste nice.

What it is

The town grew around hot mineral springs and by the nineteenth century was one of Europe's grandest spa resorts. Its spa architecture and tradition earned it a place on UNESCO's list of the Great Spa Towns of Europe, a group spread across several countries. The springs still feed the colonnades and spa buildings, and the town works as a spa today.

The best-known spring is the Vřídlo, a hot spring that shoots up as a jet inside its own colonnade. The water is hot, so don't drink it straight from the jet.

Getting there

The bus is the simplest way. Direct services run from Prague, including from Florenc. Check the operator for journey times, compare timetables and book ahead for weekends and holidays. Rail connections exist, but the bus is usually more direct. Check cd.cz for current train options (as of 2026; check the official source).

The bus station is on the edge of the centre, and the walk to the main colonnades is manageable. Local buses and taxis are there too.

How to taste the water

The tradition is to sip the spa water slowly from a small ceramic cup with a spout, a lázeňský pohárek. Shops around the colonnades sell them. The springs differ in temperature and mineral content, and the water tastes warm and salty, sometimes with a hint of iron. Many first-timers are underwhelmed. The point is the ritual more than the flavour.

Spa hotels offer treatments, so confirm what they include before booking.

The colonnades and the walk

The main colonnades line the Teplá river:

• The Mill Colonnade (Mlýnská kolonáda), a long neo-Renaissance building with several springs.
• The Market Colonnade (Tržní kolonáda), a lighter wooden structure.
• The Hot Spring Colonnade (Vřídelní kolonáda), home of the Vřídlo.

Walk the riverside promenade, cross a bridge or two and climb to a viewpoint. The town is built on slopes, so the better views take effort. A funicular and a lookout tower on the hill above the centre give wide views over the valley. Check whether they're running before you rely on them (as of 2026; check the official source).

What to eat and drink

The local speciality is spa wafers (lázeňské oplatky), thin round wafers with a sweet filling, sold in boxes. They are the standard souvenir.

The local drink is Becherovka, a herbal liqueur made in the town and drunk across Czechia. A small glass is the norm, and many Czechs take it chilled. It's strong, so think digestif. The company runs a museum, so check opening details if you're curious.

Restaurants near the colonnades are geared to visitors. Walk a few streets from the spa centre and read the menu before you commit.

If the weather turns

The colonnades are covered, so the signature activity survives rain. You can walk the springs under cast-iron and glass, taste the water and shelter between tastings. Save the funicular and the lookout for a clear spell, because a view over mist is no view at all.

The hills make the town beautiful and tiring in equal measure. Plan your steepest walk for the cooler part of the day and keep the flat riverside stretches for the middle.

Events

The town hosts an international film festival in summer, one of the best known in Central Europe. It brings crowds and higher accommodation prices, so book early if you want to go, and avoid festival week if you don't. Concerts and exhibitions fill the spa buildings and theatre through the year.

A sensible day

What locals know

The cup is the clue. Carry a spa cup and sip between the colonnades as you walk, and you will be doing what the town was designed for: a slow promenade, not a sprint between sights. Stop at a spring, taste, move on, and let the day set its own pace.

The commonest mistakes are drinking too much of the water too quickly, booking a spa treatment without checking what it includes, and arriving during the film festival without a hotel.

Practical points

• The town is hilly. Wear comfortable shoes.
• Many shops and cafés take cards, but carry some cash.
• Colonnade and museum hours vary by season, so check ahead.
• For a spa treatment, book in advance and confirm what it includes.

Frequently asked questions

How do I get to Karlovy Vary from Prague?

The bus is the simplest way. Direct services run from Prague, including from Florenc. Check the operator for times and book ahead for weekends and holidays.

Can I drink the water from the springs?

Yes, in small sips from a spa cup. The Vřídlo is hot, so don't drink it straight from the jet. It is not medicine.

What are spa wafers?

Lázeňské oplatky are thin round wafers with a sweet filling, sold in boxes. They are the standard souvenir.

Is it busy during the film festival?

Yes. It brings crowds and higher accommodation prices, so book early or avoid festival week.

Buy a cup, try the water once, then switch to coffee and a wafer.