Dancing House, Prague: the story of Fred and Ginger on the Vltava

Two towers lean into each other on the embankment. One is smooth glass, pinched at the waist like a swirling skirt. The other is solid concrete, bulging and punched with windows. Locals call them Fred and Ginger, after Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers, and the nickname has stuck better than the official name, the Dancing House.

It may be the only building in central Prague that people photograph before they know what it is.

A gap that stayed a gap

In February 1945 an Allied bombing raid hit Prague and destroyed the building that stood on this corner of the embankment. The plot sat empty through the communist years.

After 1989 the land came up for use. Václav Havel, who had grown up in the family house a few doors down, backed the idea of filling the gap with something contemporary. The architect Vlado Milunić, a Czech born in Zagreb, drew the first concept and invited the American architect Frank Gehry to work with him. The Dutch insurer Nationale-Nederlanden, which would take the offices, financed it. The building was completed in 1996.

Why it divided Prague

The street is lined with historic apartment blocks, many neo-Renaissance and Art Nouveau. Some Praguers thought the new arrival wrecked the harmony. Others thought the capital needed a clear sign that the communist years were over. Both arguments survive, and time has helped: the building feels part of the embankment now, and the row is part of its story.

For the context, see Prague's architecture styles explained and the Art Nouveau walking guide. At the other end of the scale, brutalism and communist-era architecture is a different kind of bold. Another Prague landmark with a divided audience is the Žižkov TV tower.

What is inside

Mostly offices. The building has also had a restaurant, a rooftop terrace with views to the Castle and a hotel. What is open to the public, and when, has changed over the years, so check before planning around the roof. If you only want the building, you needn't go in: the best views of the exterior are from across the river and along the embankment, where the two towers line up.

Reading the building

The glass tower is Ginger, and the shape is deliberate, meant to suggest movement. The wire-mesh sculpture on top, often called Medusa, gives the roofline hair. Look at how the curves are built: the windows vary and the surfaces tilt, but the cornice lines and heights respect the neighbours. It looks wild and is quietly polite.

Getting there

The Dancing House is on Rašínovo nábřeží at Jiráskovo náměstí, Prague 2.

• By tram, get off at Jiráskovo náměstí.
• On foot, it is a short walk from Karlovo náměstí metro (line B), or a stroll along the embankment from Vyšehrad.
• It is a natural stop on a walk along Náplavka; see our guide to the Náplavka farmers market.

Nearby

North along the embankment is the National Theatre; see the National Theatre guide. In between are riverside terraces and, in season, boat rentals. If you like Prague taking bold design risks, cubist architecture in Prague did the same a hundred years earlier. And since Havel's old neighbourhood is part of this story, Havel and Lou Reed shows another side of him.

Frequently asked questions

Who designed the Dancing House?

Vlado Milunić and Frank Gehry. Milunić drew the first concept and invited Gehry to join him.

Why is it called Fred and Ginger?

The two towers seem to dance, which reminded people of Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. The official name is the Dancing House, or Tančící dům in Czech.

Can I go inside?

It is mainly an office building. Parts have been open to the public over the years, so check before you go.

How do I get there?

Take a tram to Jiráskovo náměstí, or walk from Karlovo náměstí metro.