Žižkov TV Tower and the crawling babies: Prague's oddest landmark

Prague's skyline is spires, towers and domes. Then there's the Žižkov Television Tower, which looks like nothing else: a concrete shaft carrying three steel pods, planted on a hillside district. Every few years somebody asks if it's the ugliest building in Europe.

Praguers have mixed feelings. They also have a soft spot, and the babies have a lot to do with that.

A short, odd history

The tower was designed in the 1980s by the architects Václav Aulický and Alois Šrámek with the engineer Jiří Kozák. It went up in the last years of communism and was completed in 1992. At about 216 metres it is the tallest structure in Prague. Its job was to broadcast television and radio, and it was built on ground that included part of a former Jewish cemetery, a choice that is still controversial.

The design is functional with a futuristic edge: the pods hold equipment and platforms, and lifts run up the shaft. After 1989 the tower found a second life as a place for visitors.

The babies

In 2000, with Prague one of the European Capitals of Culture, the artist David Černý put giant babies on the tower, crawling up the shaft. They have no faces, just a barcode-like pattern where the face should be. They were meant to be temporary. They proved so popular that they stayed. Some have been taken down for maintenance and put back, which became a news story of its own. In Czech they are Miminka, and they are the tower's signature.

Černý is known for provocative public art in Prague. Our guide to street art and murals covers more.

Visiting

The observation level is at about 93 metres, reached by a fast lift. The view takes in Žižkov, the Castle and the Vltava valley. Hours, tickets and what is open change, so check the official site.

Why people love it anyway

It is so strange that it has become the district's symbol. It is a reminder of how architecture reflects its time. And the babies turned a controversial building into something with a sense of humour. See brutalism and communist-era architecture in Prague for the style, and compare the very different mood of the Dancing House on the river.

The district under the tower

Žižkov takes its name from Jan Žižka, the Hussite commander who won a famous battle on nearby Vítkov hill in 1420. A huge bronze equestrian statue of him stands there, beside the National Monument, a heavy twentieth-century building with a complicated political history. The district likes a joke at its own expense, and speaks half-seriously of the "Free Republic of Žižkov". The tower fits: large, odd and slightly rebellious.

For the district, see our guide to Prague 3: Žižkov and its surroundings, or Vinohrady versus Žižkov if you're choosing. Žižkov is known for pubs and small venues, so how a Czech pub works is useful, and its beer culture links to Czech beer consumption.

Spotting it

The tower is visible from much of the city. Climb Petřín or stand on the Letná plateau and it appears beside the spires. At night it's lit and the pods glow. If you prefer a landmark from the old school, compare it with the Prague Orloj.

Taste and argument

Architects praise the engineering and the bold geometry. Critics point to its scale among low houses, and to the cemetery. Both belong to the story, and a visit lets you decide. Wear sensible shoes, because Žižkov is hilly, and plan a route with our guide to Prague's most walkable neighbourhoods.

Frequently asked questions

How tall is the Žižkov Television Tower?

About 216 metres, the tallest structure in Prague.

Who made the babies?

The artist David Černý installed them in 2000 as a temporary work. They stayed.

Can I go up the tower?

Yes, there is an observation level at about 93 metres. Check the official site for hours and tickets.

Was it built on a cemetery?

Part of the site was a former Jewish cemetery, which is why the location remains controversial.

How do I get there?

Take metro line A to Jiřího z Poděbrad, then walk.

Are the babies still there?

They have been taken down for maintenance and put back before. Check the official site for the current situation.