Moravian wine for beginners: grapes, burčák and how to read the label

If you ask a Czech what the national drink is, the answer is beer. If you ask what they drink at a family lunch in the autumn, there is a decent chance it is Moravian wine.

Where it comes from

Czechia has two wine regions. Moravia (Morava) in the south-east accounts for the great majority of the country's vines. Bohemia (Čechy) is a smaller region north of Prague, around Mělník and Litoměřice. Moravia is divided into four subregions: Mikulov, Slovácko, Velkopavlovicko and Znojmo. See Czech wine regions for the map-level view.

The climate is continental: warm summers, cold winters, and sunny southern slopes. White wine is the main product, and the whites are fresh and often crisp.

Grapes to know

The white grapes you will see most are Veltlínské zelené (Grüner Veltliner), a peppery, fresh variety that is among the most widely grown; Ryzlink rýnský (Riesling), crisp and aromatic; Müller Thurgau, light and floral; Rulandské bílé (Pinot Blanc) and Chardonnay; and Pálava, a Czech-bred aromatic variety, popular for fragrant wines.

For reds, look for Frankovka (Blaufränkisch), with deep colour and spice; Svatovavřinecké (St Laurent), soft and fruity; and Modrý Portugal (Blauer Portugieser), light and easy. Not all grapes are bottled as single-variety wines, so check the label.

Burčák

Burčák is young wine, partly fermented grape must, sold in late summer and autumn when the harvest begins. It is cloudy, sweet and fizzy, and it is stronger than it tastes. It is meant to be drunk fresh and does not travel well, so buy it where it is made and drink it that day. Look for a sign saying burčák at markets, wine bars and in wine towns.

The usual mistake is to treat it like grape juice. It is still fermenting, it keeps fermenting in a closed bottle, and the sweetness hides the alcohol. Take it slowly, and pair it with something salty or fatty, such as fried cheese or sausage.

Reading the label

A bottle shows the grape, the vintage (year) and a quality category. Czech wine falls into table wine, country wine, quality wine and "predicate" wines (víno s přívlastkem) classified by grape ripeness at harvest. There is also a regional quality certification called VOC (Vína originální certifikace), used by some producers for wines of a specific origin. The Wines of Czechia site explains the system.

Ordering wine in a Czech restaurant

Wine lists are usually split into white (bílé), red (červené) and rosé (růžové), then by subregion or grape. By the glass you will see 1 dl and 2 dl measures, and a bottle (láhev) is cheaper per glass if you are two or more. If the list is long and unfamiliar, ask co doporučíte k jídlu? (what do you recommend with the food?). Waiters in wine-minded restaurants know their producers and are happy to be asked. Name the grape or the subregion and you will be understood.

A tip for your first order: choose a dry white from a grape you can pronounce. It will teach you more about the region than a heavy red, and it goes with most Czech dishes.

Wine in Prague

Prague has wine bars, wine shops and restaurants that list Moravian wine by the glass. It also has small vineyards within the city, such as those at Troja and the St Wenceslas vineyard by Prague Castle. Ask for a deci (decilitre) or two to taste before you commit to a bottle; wine is often sold by the glass in 1 or 2 dl measures.

A shop assistant can find a bottle from a subregion if you name it. A good test is to ask for a dry white from Mikulov and a red from Slovácko and compare.

Visiting Moravia

The wine towns have cellars (sklípky) where families sell wine from the barrel. The region is known for cycling routes between villages. Plan a night in a wine town rather than a rushed day trip, because the cellars are the point and the drive home is not. Mikulov is reachable by train or bus from Prague, and cycling makes more sense than driving once you have started tasting.

Pairings

Dry whites suit fish, fried cheese and chicken. Reds go with game and grilled meat. See fried cheese for an easy match.

Common mistakes

The first is ordering by sweetness without reading the label: polosuché is not dry. The second is expecting a French-style hierarchy of famous estates; the Czech scene is made of many small producers, and the name of the grower matters more than the village. The third is leaving burčák in a warm bag. Drink it within a day or so of buying.

Frequently asked questions

Where does Czech wine come from?

Mostly Moravia, in the south-east. Bohemia, north of Prague, has a smaller region around Mělník and Litoměřice.

What is burčák?

Young, partly fermented grape must, sold in autumn. It is cloudy, sweet and fizzy, and stronger than it tastes.

What does polosuché mean?

Medium dry. It can taste sweeter than you expect, so read the label.

Which grapes should I try first?

A Veltlínské zelené or a Ryzlink rýnský for white, a Frankovka or a Svatovavřinecké for red.

What is VOC?

A regional quality certification (Vína originální certifikace) used by some producers for wines of a specific origin.

Do this today

Order a glass of Veltlínské zelené at a wine bar, then a glass of Frankovka. Notice the differences, and write down the producer of the one you liked.