Brno weekend guide: functionalism, wine and Czechia's second city

Prague gets the postcards, Brno gets the people who live in Czechia. It is the country's second city, the seat of its constitutional court and a university town, with Gothic spires, Baroque churches and an unusually rich stock of modern architecture. There are fewer tourists, more to see than a first-time visitor expects and, in the evenings, a lively café scene.

It is easy to reach, and a weekend is plenty.

Getting there

Trains run frequently from Praha hlavní nádraží to Brno hlavní nádraží, and the journey takes roughly two and a half to three hours, depending on the service (check the timetable). Several operators serve the line, and fares and onboard services vary. Compare cd.cz and the other operators, and reserve a seat on a Friday or Sunday. Direct buses also run between the two cities.

Brno's station sits at the edge of the centre, and a short walk or a tram ride takes you to the main square. Brno has its own trams and buses and a regional ticket system, which you can look up on the city transport website; our guide to Prague's metro, trams and buses shows how the Prague equivalent works.

The old town

Brno's historic centre is compact. Freedom Square (náměstí Svobody) is the main gathering spot, lined with historic houses. On it stands the Brno astronomical clock, a dark stone column unveiled in 2010. At 11:00 every day a glass ball drops from the clock and rolls out of a slot at the foot of the column, and a small crowd gathers to watch. It is quirky and slightly baffling, and worth timing your visit for. The tourist information site has the details.

Nearby is the Cabbage Market (Zelný trh), a historic marketplace with a baroque fountain, a stall market in the morning and cafés. The Cathedral of St Peter and St Paul on Petrov hill dominates the skyline; its twin spires are recognisable from afar, and its bells ring noon at 11 am, a quirk locals will happily explain.

Špilberk Castle stands on a hill above the centre. It began as a Gothic castle in the thirteenth century and later served as a fortress and a prison. It now houses a museum, and the view over the city is a reward.

Modernism and Villa Tugendhat

Brno between the wars was a centre of functionalist architecture, and the city has many modernist buildings, from villas to cafés. Villa Tugendhat, designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe and completed in 1930, is the highlight. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2001, and is known for its open plan and its use of glass and onyx. Visits are by guided tour and need booking well ahead; check the villa's official website for tour types and availability.

If you like twentieth-century architecture, see our guides to cubist architecture in Prague, Prague's architecture styles and brutalism and communist-era architecture. The Brno Exhibition Centre, associated with the 1928 exhibition, is a large functionalist complex worth a stroll.

Underground Brno

Brno has an underground side. Beneath the Cabbage Market lies the Labyrinth under the Cabbage Market, a network of cellars used for storage over the centuries. The Capuchin Crypt holds the naturally mummified bodies of monks, and the Ossuary under the Church of St James holds the bones of a great many people. These are sober places, and not for everyone. Check opening times and whether photography is allowed. Compare with the ossuary at Sedlec in our Kutná Hora guide.

Science and the monk who counted peas

Brno is the city where Gregor Mendel, an Augustinian friar, carried out the experiments on pea plants that laid the foundations of modern genetics. The Augustinian abbey where he lived has a museum that tells the story, a modest but absorbing visit if you like science.

Wine and food

South Moravia is Czechia's main wine-growing region, and Brno is its natural gateway. Wine bars in the city serve local bottles, and you can reach vineyards and cellars by train or bus. Our Moravian wine guide, Czech wine regions and the piece on burčák, young wine explain what to try; burčák appears in early autumn.

Brno's food scene combines Czech standards with a lively café and restaurant culture driven by students. Our Czech food guide will help you order.

A simple weekend plan

Practical notes

• Money. Czech crowns; see the Czech koruna for beginners.
• Language. You can get by in English in the centre, but Czech phrases are appreciated; see Czech phrases every visitor should know.
• Combining trips. Olomouc is a natural second stop, and Vienna is a train ride further south.

Frequently asked questions

How long is the train from Prague to Brno?

Roughly two and a half to three hours, depending on the service. Trains are frequent; check the timetable.

Is Brno worth a weekend?

Yes. Architecture, history, wine and a lively café scene fill a weekend easily.

Do I need to book Villa Tugendhat?

Yes. Tours are by guided visit and sell out. Check the official website for availability.

What happens at 11:00 on Freedom Square?

The astronomical clock on Freedom Square releases a glass ball. The tourist information site has the details.

Can I visit wine country from Brno?

Yes. South Moravian vineyards and cellars are reachable by train or bus.