Prague craft beer without the guesswork: where to drink and what 12° means

Czechs drink beer at a rate that puts the country among the highest in the world, and for most of the twentieth century that meant a handful of pale lagers, a dark one, and not much argument. The craft scene in Prague is the argument.

Start with what craft means here

There is no single legal definition of craft beer in Czechia. People use the word for small independent breweries, brewpubs with their own tanks, and "contract" brewers who brew on rented equipment at another brewery. The label tells you little. The questions that matter are who brewed it, where, and what is in the glass.

Many Czech craft brewers are proud of doing the classic lager very well first, and that is a good test of a brewery: a clean, balanced pale lager has nowhere to hide. Then they experiment with IPA, pale ale, stout, wheat beer and sour styles. If you want a baseline before you wander, start with the traditional styles in Czech beer styles explained.

Reading the numbers

On a Czech menu or label you will see a number with a degree sign, such as 10° or 12°. This is degrees Plato, a measure of the sugar in the wort before fermentation. It is not the alcohol content, though a higher number usually means a stronger beer. The strength itself is written separately as a percentage ABV. Both numbers are normally on the label or the chalkboard.

Locals also use the number as shorthand for a style of beer, so "a twelve" tells a barman roughly what you want. In craft venues the board often adds a style name you already know (IPA, stout, saison) next to the Plato figure.

Czech lager is also described as světlé (pale), tmavé (dark), polotmavé (half-dark) and řezané (a mix of pale and dark).

Where to drink it

Brewpubs brew on the premises, often visible through glass. The beer is as fresh as it gets. Taprooms belong to a brewery and pour its own beer, with guest taps, and they are more informal than a pub. Pubs with rotating taps pour from several small breweries, and a chalkboard changes with the kegs. Bottle and can shops sell beer to take away, and many have a few taps and fridge shelves for drinking in. This is the easiest place to try a range without committing to a full glass.

Search the area you are staying in. Karlín, Vinohrady, Smíchov and Holešovice all have a spread of choices. For the neighbourhood context, see the guides to Karlín and Holešovice.

Ordering

Ask for a small glass if the beer is strong. Craft places commonly pour in smaller glasses than the half-litre of the traditional pub, and the size is written on the menu. Read the board before you order, because prices vary by beer and venue. Ask for a taste if you are unsure, since staff are used to it and would rather you enjoyed what you chose.

Craft venues also change the etiquette. You can often order at the bar, unlike in a traditional pub, where the waiter comes to you. Pay when you order or at the end, and look at what the people next to you do. See how a Czech pub works for the older system, and for why the next beer may arrive unasked in one place and never in another.

Czech beer is protected

"České pivo" (Czech Beer) is a protected geographical indication in the European Union, covering beer brewed in Czechia to a defined specification. Many craft beers do not use it, and that is not a sign of low quality. It simply means they are not following that specification, or have not applied.

Common mistakes

Ordering the strongest beer first is the usual one, and the board is often a better guide than your enthusiasm: a high-gravity IPA on an empty stomach ends an evening early. Another is assuming "craft" means better. Some of the best beer in Prague comes from old-fashioned breweries and tank-beer pubs; the craft scene is a complement, not a replacement. See tank beer in Prague for that side of the story.

A third is not eating. Czech beer food is built for the job; a plate of cheese or sausage steadies the evening, and the snack list in Czech bar snacks is a good place to start.

Frequently asked questions

Is there an official definition of craft beer in Czechia?

No single legal definition exists. People use the word for small independent breweries, brewpubs and contract brewers, so the label alone does not tell you much.

What does 12° mean on a Czech beer?

Twelve degrees Plato, a measure of the sugar in the wort before fermentation. It is not the alcohol percentage, which is printed separately.

What is the difference between a brewpub and a taproom?

A brewpub brews on the premises and serves its own beer. A taproom belongs to a brewery and pours its own beer, often with guest taps.

Is České pivo the same as craft beer?

No. České pivo is a protected EU name for beer brewed in Czechia to a specification. Many craft beers do not use it, which says nothing about quality.

Do I order at the bar or wait for a waiter?

In many craft venues you order at the bar. In traditional pubs the waiter comes to you. Watch the next table.

Do this today

Find a bottle shop or taproom near a tram stop, ask for a small glass of whatever is freshest, and then compare it with a plain lager from a traditional pub. Note what you like about each.