Prague in December: markets, weather and when the shops shut

By 4pm on a December afternoon the light over the Vltava has turned to pewter, the streetlamps are on and the stalls on the Old Town Square are glowing. This is what people fly in for. Prague in December is cold, dark early and very good at making you forget both.

What the weather does

December is cold, damp and short on daylight. The sun sets around four in the afternoon, so a day outside is really a morning and an early afternoon. Frost is normal, and snow is possible, especially in the second half of the month, but it is not guaranteed and does not always settle in the centre. The Prague weather month by month guide has the wider picture, and the piece on what to expect and what to wear in winter has the clothes.

Wear a warm coat, a hat, gloves and shoes with real grip, because cobbles and tram platforms are slippery after frost. Thin layers help indoors, where the heating is generous. Standing at a market stall for twenty minutes is colder than walking, so keep moving between the mulled wine and the next stop.

The markets

The best-known markets are on the Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square, with others at the castle and in some of the city's other squares. They usually open in late November and run into early January, but dates and hours vary by market and year, so check the official calendar. Prague's Christmas markets explains how they work and how to dodge the crush.

Go on a weekday afternoon, because weekends and evenings are dense, and treat the market as a place to eat and drink as much as to shop. The hot drinks are described in svařák, grog and hot mead. Mugs often carry a deposit that you get back when you return the cup, though some stalls let you keep it as a souvenir.

Mikuláš and the pre-Christmas weeks

The evening of 5 December is Mikuláš (St Nicholas), when a bishop, an angel and a devil walk the streets, and children are asked whether they have been good. It can be a surprise if you meet a group of costumed adults on the metro. The background is in Mikuláš night in Prague.

Christmas Eve, when the city stops

Czech Christmas is celebrated on the evening of 24 December, not the 25th. Families eat at home, traditionally carp and potato salad, and then the presents come out. The customs are covered in Czech Christmas: live carp, golden pigs and a Baby Jesus and the food in the Czech Christmas dinner.

For a visitor this has real consequences. 24, 25 and 26 December are public holidays. Under Act 223/2016 large shops close after 12:00 on the 24th and stay shut on the 25th and 26th, and again on 1 January. Check the DPP and PID timetables for holiday services, because public transport usually runs a reduced timetable. Many restaurants shut or serve a fixed menu, and some are booked weeks ahead. Do your food shopping on the 23rd. The markets usually close earlier on the 24th, so check the day's hours.

New Year's Eve

On 31 December the squares and embankments fill up, and plenty of people let off their own fireworks, sometimes close to the crowd. Keep your phone and wallet in zipped pockets and stay clear of the tram tracks. Check the PID timetable in advance for the night's arrangements. New Year's Day is a public holiday, large shops are closed, and the morning is very quiet.

A sensible December day

Start late; there is nothing to see in the dark of early morning. Do the Castle district or a museum in the bright hours between about ten and three, then walk down to the Old Town as the light fades. Eat an early dinner in a pub, because tables get scarce after seven before Christmas, then hit the market for the lights and a hot drink. It beats cramming sights in after dark.

Beyond the markets

Advent also means concerts and church music across the city, and Prague in winter lists what to expect. For a break from the crowds, a day in a smaller town works, since trains still run. Book early for the weekends before Christmas.

Frequently asked questions

Is December a good time to visit Prague?

Yes, if you like Christmas markets and do not mind the cold. Expect short days, with sunset around 4pm.

Does it snow in Prague in December?

It can, especially in the second half of the month, but it varies year to year. Pack for frost and damp either way.

Are shops open on Christmas Eve?

Large shops close at 12:00 on 24 December and are closed on 25 and 26 December. Smaller shops and restaurants set their own hours, so check.

When do the Prague Christmas markets open?

They typically open in late November and run until early January, but dates and hours vary, so check the official listing.

Make the 23rd your shopping day, then spend the 24th walking a very quiet Old Town.