Cheb, Mariánské Lázně and Františkovy Lázně: a spa triangle weekend

Karlovy Vary gets the glossy brochures. But the far west of Bohemia holds two more spa towns, a border town with a murder in its past and a great deal of mineral water, all within a short train ride of each other. The area is sometimes marketed as the Spa Triangle, a grand name for three small towns that are best seen slowly.

If you have read our guide to Karlovy Vary, this is the natural next chapter.

What UNESCO said

In 2021 UNESCO inscribed the Great Spa Towns of Europe, a serial listing of 11 towns in seven countries. Three are in Czechia: Karlovy Vary, Mariánské Lázně and Františkovy Lázně. The listing recognises a type of place, built around natural springs, with colonnades, parks, bathhouses and promenades.

So you are not hunting for one monument. You are looking at a way of living: walk, drink the water, sit in a park, talk.

Cheb: the border town

Cheb (historically Eger) is the corner of the triangle that is not a spa. Its main square, Náměstí Krále Jiřího z Poděbrad, is lined with tall medieval houses, including a cluster of half-timbered buildings called the Špalíček that looks lifted from a German town. Above the river stands Cheb Castle, with a Romanesque chapel and a black tower of volcanic stone.

In 1634 the imperial general Albrecht von Wallenstein was killed in Cheb during the Thirty Years' War. The house where it happened is now part of the town museum, so you can hear the story on the spot.

Mariánské Lázně: the park spa

Mariánské Lázně (Marienbad) is the grandest of the three. It was laid out in the nineteenth century in a forested valley, with a cast-iron colonnade over the springs, a Singing Fountain that runs a music-and-light show, and rows of villas and hotels. Chopin visited in 1836.

The streets climb gently up wooded slopes and you can walk from the colonnade into a park within minutes. The mood is unhurried and a little old-fashioned, which is the point.

Františkovy Lázně: the small yellow spa

Františkovy Lázně (Franzensbad) is the smallest and most compact. It dates from the late eighteenth century and is named after Emperor Francis I. Its classical buildings are painted a soft yellow, and the centre is a park-like grid with pavilions over the springs. It is known for mineral waters and for peat, used in treatments.

It is very quiet. Some visitors find it sleepy. Others say the quiet is exactly what they came for.

Drinking the water

The ritual is to buy a spa cup, a small ceramic cup with a built-in spout, and sip from the springs while walking the colonnade. The water often tastes metallic or salty, so sip a little first. Treatments are arranged through spa hotels and are medical in nature; ask the spa what is offered. This guide does not give health advice. You do not need a treatment to enjoy the towns, since the colonnades, gardens and springs are open to everyone, and plenty of visitors buy a cup, try a spring or two and spend the rest of the day in a café.

Getting around

From Prague, trains and buses reach Cheb and Mariánské Lázně in roughly three hours. Check cd.cz and idos.cz. Local trains and buses link the three towns, and Františkovy Lázně is only a few kilometres from Cheb. The simplest plan is one base and two outings.

Eating and drinking

Expect regional Czech cooking and hotel menus pitched at visitors from Germany and beyond. Our Czech food guide helps with the menu, and the story of the herbal liqueur from nearby Karlovy Vary is in Becherovka and Czech spirits.

For a castle on the way, Loket is not far off.

Book two nights if you can. One night turns the trip into a dash between stations, and out of season some springs, pavilions and attractions keep reduced hours, so check before you go.

Frequently asked questions

What is the Spa Triangle?

A tourist name for the three towns of Cheb, Mariánské Lázně and Františkovy Lázně in West Bohemia.

Are all three on the UNESCO list?

Mariánské Lázně and Františkovy Lázně are, as part of the Great Spa Towns of Europe (2021). Cheb is the historic town in between.

Can I do it in a day from Prague?

It is a long day because the journey is roughly three hours each way. A weekend is more comfortable.

Do I need to book treatments?

Treatments are arranged through spa hotels and are medical in nature. Ask the spa directly what is offered.

What is a spa cup?

A small ceramic cup with a spout, used to sip mineral water from the springs while walking the colonnade.