Hradec Králové: the 'Salon of the Republic' and its interwar architecture

Czech towns are usually sold on how old they are. Hradec Králové is proud of being modern. Once the old fortress had lost its military job, the town could grow outwards, and in the early twentieth century two of the best architects of the day were let loose on the open land. The result is still there, and it explains a nickname that sounds like a chic hotel: the Salon of the Republic.

The idea behind the nickname

Hradec Králové stands where the Elbe (Labe) meets the smaller Orlice. The city's expansion was guided by Jan Kotěra, a leading figure of Czech modern architecture, and some of its best-known buildings are by Josef Gočár. Gočár also designed the cubist House of the Black Madonna in Prague, covered in our guide to cubist architecture, so you may already know his hand.

The look is clean lines, brick and white render, wide squares and green space, built for a young republic that wanted to face forward. Some buildings are bold, others quietly elegant, and walking between them tells you what interwar optimism felt like.

What to look at

Start in the old centre and work outwards.

• The White Tower (Bílá věž) and the neighbouring Cathedral of the Holy Spirit are the medieval landmarks, proof that the city is older than its modern reputation. You can climb the tower.
• The Museum of Eastern Bohemia is by Kotěra and a good place to start the modern story.
• Gočár's buildings are spread around the city. Ask the tourist information office for a walking-route map.
• The riverside paths along the Elbe and the Orlice give your eyes a rest.

For the earlier chapter of the story, see art nouveau in Prague and the styles of Prague architecture.

A battle nearby

The Battle of Königgrätz (the German name of the town) was fought in July 1866 in the countryside just outside, between Prussia and Austria. It was one of the largest battles in Europe in the nineteenth century and it settled the contest for leadership in Germany. The battlefield, a short drive or bus ride away, has monuments and small museums. It is not for everyone, but it explains why the town was a fortress at all.

Getting there

Direct trains run from Praha hlavní nádraží, and the journey takes roughly an hour and a half. Check cd.cz and idos.cz. The line continues through east Bohemia, so you can pair Hradec with Pardubice, a short train ride away. From the station it is a short walk to the centre.

Eating, drinking and looking

Hradec has a student crowd and plenty of cafés. Walk round the squares and pick somewhere busy. Our guide to reading a Czech menu covers the vocabulary. Tower and museum hours vary by season, and in wet weather the museums and cafés become your base (see our rainy-day ideas).

If interwar architecture is new to you, three habits help. Look at proportions: these buildings are plainer than their baroque neighbours and rely on the balance of windows, walls and rooflines. Look at materials, especially brick, render and concrete, which were new and fashionable. And look at how a building meets the street, because the architects of this era treated squares, avenues and green space as part of one plan.

Do not arrive expecting a medieval centre. There is an old core, but the identity of the place is the modern layer around it. Travelling with someone who is not an architecture fan? Balance the walk with the riverside paths and a long lunch.

Frequently asked questions

Why is Hradec Králové called the Salon of the Republic?

Because of its interwar architecture. The city was redeveloped with buildings by leading architects such as Jan Kotěra and Josef Gočár.

How long is the train from Prague?

Roughly an hour and a half on direct trains. Check cd.cz and idos.cz for current times.

Can I combine it with Pardubice?

Yes. The two cities are close by train, so a combined day is possible.

What happened at Königgrätz?

In July 1866 Prussia defeated Austria in a major battle near Hradec Králové, which settled the contest for leadership in Germany.

Is it good for a rainy day?

Partly. The museums and cafés give you indoor options, though the architecture is best seen outdoors.