Pardubice: gingerbread, a brutal steeplechase and a Renaissance centre

Pardubice is easy to underrate. It sits on the main line east of Prague, the trains are quick, and for many travellers it is just a name on the departure board. That is a pity, because it has a compact Renaissance centre, a famous sweet, an even more famous horse race and a chateau with a moat.

Getting there

Fast trains run from Praha hlavní nádraží to Pardubice in roughly an hour; slower regional services take longer, and the fastest trains may require a seat reservation. Check cd.cz and idos.cz for times and fares.

The station is a short walk from the centre. Pardubice is also the handy gateway to Litomyšl and sits on the line towards Hradec Králové, a short hop away.

The centre and the chateau

Pardubice owes its look to the Pernštejn family, who rebuilt the town on a planned Renaissance model in the late fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The main square is Pernštýnské náměstí, lined with historic houses, and the Green Gate (Zelená brána), a tall gate-tower anchoring the old town, is the landmark everyone photographs.

The chateau stands at the edge of the centre, surrounded by a moat and a park. The Pernštejns rebuilt it from a medieval fortress, and it is now a museum. The grounds are among the town's best spots for a pause between sights.

Gingerbread with a certificate

Pardubický perník is the local gingerbread: a sweet, spiced biscuit, often shaped as hearts or iced, sold in bakeries and gift shops around town. Its name has been a protected geographical indication in the EU since 2007, so gingerbread sold under it must be made to a set specification in the Pardubice area.

It makes a souvenir and is also just good with coffee. Gingerbread turns up at Christmas markets across the country; see Czech Christmas food and Czech sweets and pastries.

To buy it properly, look for the protected name on the packaging. Quality varies from plain biscuits to filled and iced ones, so ask the baker how it is made and how long it keeps. Fresh gingerbread is softer than the shop-window kind. The decorated pieces are best treated as souvenirs, and if you are buying a gift, ask for a box, because the hearts are brittle.

The horse race

Every October the town becomes the centre of Czech horse racing. The Velká pardubická, first run in 1874, is a steeplechase with a reputation as one of the most demanding of its kind, largely because of the fences. The best known is the Taxis ditch (Taxisův příkop), a wide ditch with a hedge in front that has ended many a horse's and rider's race.

The race is a spectacle and a social event, and the town is busy that weekend. Check the date on the racecourse's official information, and book accommodation and your train seat early. If you turn up on the day without a plan, expect full hotels and long waits for trains back to Prague.

The Semtex connection

Pardubice has a darker claim to fame. The plastic explosive Semtex was developed at a chemical works in the Pardubice area, and its name comes from the nearby village of Semtín. It is not a tourist attraction, but if you are curious, read our piece on the history of Semtex.

Pardubice is flat and popular with cyclists, and the river and parks reward a slower pace than a dash between trains. It is a good quiet autumn day when no race is on, with the park under falling leaves. Check chateau and museum hours before you set off, especially on a Monday.

Frequently asked questions

How far is Pardubice from Prague?

Fast trains from Praha hlavní nádraží take roughly an hour. Check cd.cz and idos.cz for current times.

What is Pardubický perník?

A spiced gingerbread from Pardubice. Its name has been protected as a geographical indication in the European Union since 2007.

When is the Velká pardubická?

In October. Check the official programme for the exact date each year.

What is the Taxis ditch?

A famous obstacle on the Velká pardubická course: a ditch with a hedge in front, known for being difficult for horses.

Is Pardubice good for a day trip?

Yes. The train is quick, the centre is compact and you can see the main sights in a few hours.