Leipzig from Prague: Bach, trade fairs and the 1989 Monday marches

Leipzig is the German city many Prague weekenders skip in favour of Dresden or Berlin, which is a pity. It has the music, the arcades, the university atmosphere and a recent history that connects directly with Czechoslovakia's own: in 1989 the peaceful revolution gathered momentum with prayers and candles in a city church.

It is also a good partner to Dresden. Both are in Saxony, and a trip to one can easily include the other.

Getting there

The usual journey is a train from Praha hlavní nádraží towards Dresden, along the Elbe valley, with a change onto another service for Leipzig. Door to door, expect roughly four hours, depending on connections (check the timetable). Buses between Prague and Leipzig also exist and can be competitive on price. Compare Czech Railways (cd.cz), Deutsche Bahn (bahn.de) and the coach operators for the day you travel.

If you want to see Dresden too, break the journey there: our Dresden guide explains the city and the train. Berlin is a short train ride further north if you want to make it a longer loop.

The music

Leipzig's reputation rests on music. Johann Sebastian Bach arrived in 1723 as cantor of the Thomaskirche (St Thomas Church) and worked in the city until his death in 1750. The Thomanerchor, the church's boys' choir, was founded in 1212 and still sings there, so a motet or a service is one of the best ways to hear it. Check the church's schedule for times.

The Gewandhaus Orchestra, founded in 1743, is among the oldest civic symphony orchestras in the world. The city also has strong associations with Mendelssohn and Schumann. If you like classical music, compare the experience with what Prague offers: see our guides to classical music in Prague and the Rudolfinum.

Trade, arcades and the station

Leipzig has been a trading city for centuries, and its trade fairs go back to the Middle Ages. The historic centre is full of covered passages and courtyards, built to show off goods to merchants. They are good places to wander in bad weather.

Auerbachs Keller, a historic cellar restaurant in the Mädler Passage that has served customers since the sixteenth century, appears in Goethe's Faust. It is a touristy but genuine piece of the city's past.

The Hauptbahnhof, opened in 1915, is a vast terminus with monumental halls and a shopping centre inside. It is an impressive place to arrive, and a reminder of the age when railways were civic temples. Compare the station buildings in Prague in our piece on Prague's architecture styles.

1989 and the Monday demonstrations

If you are visiting for history, go to the Nikolaikirche (St Nicholas Church). In the autumn of 1989, peace prayers held there on Mondays drew crowds who then marched through the city, calling for change. The Monday demonstrations became a significant strand of the peaceful revolution in East Germany. The church is open to visitors, with an exhibition and a memorial column outside.

Czech visitors will feel the echoes. Our guide to the Velvet Revolution and the piece on communist Czechoslovakia tell the Czech side of that same autumn. A visit to the Leipzig sites shows how events in neighbouring countries fed into each other.

Other sights

The Monument to the Battle of the Nations (Völkerschlachtdenkmal) on the southern edge of the city was unveiled in 1913 to mark a hundred years since the 1813 battle in which Napoleon was defeated. It is enormous, and you can climb it for views over the city. It takes a short tram ride to reach.

The university, founded in 1409, and the student districts give the city a youthful feel, and the cafés in the centre are good places to rest. Parks and canals provide pleasant walks.

Eating, drinking and money

Saxon food includes hearty dishes with potatoes, sausages, dumplings and cakes. The coffee-house tradition is old and strong. Leipzig is also known for local beer styles. The euro is the currency. German tipping custom is a rounding up; compare it with tipping in Prague.

A simple plan

Arrive and walk the centre, taking in the arcades and the Thomaskirche. Hear the choir if there is a service. In the evening, eat in a historic cellar or one of the many bars in the Barfußgässchen. On day two, visit the Nikolaikirche, then the Battle of the Nations monument, and finish with a coffee before the train home. A long day trip is possible but tiring; a night is better.

Heading further south? Nuremberg and Munich are next on the map.

Frequently asked questions

How do I get from Prague to Leipzig?

Usually by train with a change, often at Dresden, or by bus. Expect roughly four hours and check the timetable.

Is Leipzig worth a visit from Prague?

Yes, especially for music and for the history of 1989. It also works as an extension of a Dresden trip.

Can I hear the Thomanerchor?

The choir sings at services and concerts at the Thomaskirche. Check the church's schedule.

What currency does Leipzig use?

The euro.

Do I need a passport?

Czechia and Germany are in the Schengen Area, so there are no routine border checks, but carry valid ID or your passport.