Nuremberg from Prague: castle walls, gingerbread and a hard history

Nuremberg has two reputations, and a good visit holds both in mind. One is the postcard: half-timbered houses, a sandstone castle on a rock, gingerbread in the shop windows and a Christmas market that draws people from across Europe. The other is the twentieth-century story of the Nazi party rallies and the war crimes trials that followed. The city does not hide from either, and the second is handled with seriousness.

It is a manageable journey from Prague, and a natural stop on the way to Munich.

Getting there

Options vary from season to season, so check before you book. Trains from Praha hlavní nádraží to Nuremberg usually involve a change somewhere on the way and take roughly four to five hours (check the timetable). Coach services from Prague also serve Nuremberg and may be cheaper. Compare Czech Railways (cd.cz), Deutsche Bahn (bahn.de) and the bus operators for current timetables, fares and luggage rules.

Because it lies on the way, many travellers combine Nuremberg with Munich. Others use it as a base for a few days in Franconia. If you prefer a shorter journey, Dresden is closer.

The old town and the castle

The old town is compact and walkable. Its medieval city wall still encloses much of it, and the Kaiserburg, the imperial castle, stands on a sandstone ridge over the rooftops. The castle was an important residence of the Holy Roman emperors, and the view from the ramparts over the red roofs is a good reward for the climb.

Much of the old centre was heavily damaged by bombing in 1945 and rebuilt in the following decades, with an effort to keep the historic street plan and skyline. That means a lot of what you see is reconstruction, done with care.

Albrecht Dürer, the painter and printmaker, was born in Nuremberg in 1471 and lived in a house near the castle that is now a museum. If you are interested in art, it is worth a visit.

The history you should not skip

Nuremberg was the setting for the Nazi party's large rallies in the 1930s, and the sprawling Rally Grounds in the south-east of the city still stand. A documentation centre there, housed in part of the unfinished Congress Hall, explains how the rallies worked as propaganda. It is a sobering visit and takes a couple of hours.

After the war, the main trials of leading Nazi officials opened in Nuremberg in November 1945, in a courtroom in the Palace of Justice. Part of the building is now a museum about the trials, and the courtroom is open to visitors when it is not in use for court business; check the memorial's website before you go.

If you have visited sites in Czechia such as Terezín or Lidice, the Nuremberg sites will feel connected: they belong to the same story, seen from the perpetrators' side. Allow time and plan the rest of the day around something gentler.

Eating and drinking

Nuremberg is known for small grilled sausages (Nürnberger Rostbratwürste), served in threes, sixes or more, with sauerkraut or potato salad. They have protected status in the European Union. The city is also famed for its gingerbread (Lebkuchen), which is on sale all year but especially around Christmas.

Franconia is a beer region with plenty of local breweries and traditional pubs. Compare it with the Czech approach in our guide to how a Czech pub works and Czech beer styles: the differences are part of the fun.

The Christmas market

The Christkindlesmarkt, held in the weeks before Christmas, is one of the best-known Christmas markets in Germany. It is busy, and prices in the centre reflect that. If you are planning a winter visit, read our piece on Christmas markets in Prague for comparison and book accommodation well ahead.

A railway first

Railway enthusiasts will like the fact that the first passenger railway in Germany opened between Nuremberg and nearby Fürth in 1835. The German railway museum in Nuremberg, run by Deutsche Bahn, tells the story. If you are travelling by train anyway, it makes a gentle and unexpected afternoon.

Practical notes

• Currency. The euro. Cards are widely accepted, though small places may prefer cash.
• Opening hours. German shops generally close on Sundays and public holidays, and museums often close one day a week. Check before you go.
• Getting around. The old town is walkable. Trams, metro and buses cover the rest, including the Rally Grounds.
• Border. Czechia and Germany are in the Schengen Area, so there are normally no routine checks at the border, but carry valid ID or your passport.

Planning a short stay

A simple plan: arrive and walk the old town, climb to the castle for sunset, then eat in a traditional tavern. On the second day, visit the Rally Grounds documentation centre or the trials museum, then return to the old town and take a train or bus home in the evening. If you only have one day, choose the old town and one of the two history sites, not both.

Want another German-language weekend? Try Leipzig or Salzburg.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to get from Prague to Nuremberg?

Roughly four to five hours by train or bus, depending on the route and connections. Check the timetable.

Is Nuremberg worth a weekend trip from Prague?

Yes, if you like medieval towns and are interested in twentieth-century history. It also works as a stop on the way to Munich.

Can I visit the Nuremberg trials courtroom?

Part of the Palace of Justice is a museum about the trials, and the courtroom is usually open when not in use. Check the memorial's website.

When is the Nuremberg Christmas market?

In the weeks before Christmas. Check the city's website for exact dates.

Do I need euros?

Yes. Germany uses the euro.