Plzeň from Prague: the home of pilsner, and a good town besides

Almost every pale lager in the world owes something to a town west of Prague. In 1842 brewers in Plzeň produced a clear, golden beer that spread across Europe and gave the style its name. A day here is part beer pilgrimage, part walk through a handsome city.

Do not treat it as only a brewery stop, though. Plzeň has a big square, a very tall tower and a set of cellars you can walk through, and the beer tastes better when you have walked between them.

Getting there

Trains run regularly from Praha hlavní nádraží to Plzeň hlavní nádraží and take around 1.5 hours. Check cd.cz for current times and fares (as of 2026; check the official source). Buses from Florenc are the alternative if you'd rather compare operators.

From the main station the old town is a short walk. The brewery lies on the far side of the river from the centre, also within walking distance, and trams and buses run if you'd rather ride.

The brewery

Pilsner Urquell is the brewery that made the beer famous. Guided tours explain the brewing process, take you through the production areas and down into the cellars, and end with a tasting. The old cellars are the highlight.

Book ahead, especially at weekends and in summer, and check languages and times (as of 2026; check the official source). Wear flat shoes and bring a layer, because the cellars are cold. For the full story of how the style began, read Pilsner and the town that gave beer a style.

The square and the cathedral

The historic centre is built around Republic Square (náměstí Republiky), one of the larger squares in Czechia. In the middle stands the Cathedral of St Bartholomew, whose tower is the tallest church tower in the country. You can climb it, and the view over the red roofs justifies the stairs. Check hours and tickets at the entrance or on the city's tourist pages.

Around the square you'll find Renaissance and baroque houses, arcades, the town hall, a plague column, fountains and cafés. Sit down for a bit, then move on.

The underground

Beneath the old town runs a network of cellars and passages, used for centuries to store beer and food. The Plzeň Historical Underground is visited on guided tours and is cool and damp whatever the weather above. Check times and tickets with the operator (as of 2026; check the official source).

The synagogue

The Great Synagogue is one of the largest synagogues in Europe. It was built in the late nineteenth century and is now used for exhibitions and concerts, with part of it open to visitors. The schedule varies, so check what's on and when it's open.

A sensible day

Want a slower pace? Stay the night. The old town has hotels, and the beer is as good in the evening as at noon.

What locals know

Plzeň is a beer town first and a heritage city second, and the pub lunch is not a detour but the point. Order the local beer where it is served at its freshest, in a pub in the old town, and sit for a while. The brewery tour gives you the history, the pub gives you the taste.

The commonest mistake is trying to cram the brewery, the underground, the cathedral tower and the synagogue into one afternoon. Choose two or three and leave the rest for another visit.

If the weather turns

Plzeň is a good wet-weather town. The brewery tour, the cellars and the underground are all indoors or below ground, the synagogue and the museums are dry, and the arcades round the square give shelter between them. Save the cathedral tower for a clear hour, because the view is the whole point.

The one thing rain spoils is the walk between the brewery and the centre. If it is pouring, take a tram or bus for that stretch and keep your energy for the cellars.

Other things to do

Plzeň has a theatre, galleries and museums, including a brewery museum, and a number of parks. It was a European Capital of Culture in 2015 and has kept some of the cultural life that came with it. The river is pleasant for a walk, and the old fortifications and gardens ring the centre. With children, look into the museums with hands-on exhibits.

Practical points

• The old town is walkable, but the cobbles tire the feet.
• Cards are widely accepted, but carry some cash for small purchases.
• Check opening hours on Mondays, as some museums close that day.

Frequently asked questions

How long is the train from Prague to Plzeň?

Around 1.5 hours from Praha hlavní nádraží to Plzeň hlavní nádraží. Check cd.cz for times.

Do I need to book the brewery tour?

Booking ahead is wise, especially at weekends and in summer. Check languages and times.

Can I climb the cathedral tower?

Yes. The Cathedral of St Bartholomew has the tallest church tower in Czechia. Check hours and tickets at the entrance or on the city's tourist pages.

Is Plzeň worth more than a day?

A day covers the main sights. Stay the night if you want a slower pace and an evening in the pubs.

Take an early train, book the brewery tour, climb the cathedral tower and be on the platform in good time for the way back.