České Budějovice day trip from Prague: Budvar, a grand square and a tower

The town that gave an American lager its name is neither American nor a lager factory. České Budějovice is a South Bohemian city on the Vltava, founded to be the kind of place a king could rely on, and laid out on a grid around a square so big it makes Prague's Old Town Square look cosy.

It is also the natural gateway to the south. If you are heading to Hluboká, Třeboň or Český Krumlov, you will probably pass through.

A king's planned town

King Přemysl Otakar II founded the city in 1265 as a royal stronghold in a region dominated by powerful noble families. He laid it out on a regular plan around a vast central square, and the plan survives. The square carries his name, Náměstí Přemysla Otakara II., and is among the largest in Central Europe.

In the middle stands Samson's Fountain, a baroque piece from the 1720s that once supplied the town's water. Around it: arcaded houses, a town hall with figures along the roofline and a long run of cafés. The square is open, bright and slightly formal. It rewards one slow lap, preferably two.

The tower

At the corner of the square the Black Tower (Černá věž), a Renaissance bell tower, stands next to the cathedral of St Nicholas. You can climb it for a view over the square and the rooftops, and the climb is not long. Check opening times first: towers close in bad weather and often in winter.

The beer

Budweis is the German name of the city, and Budweiser simply means "of Budweis". Budějovický Budvar, founded in 1895, has brewed here ever since, and has spent decades in a legal argument with the American brewer Anheuser-Busch over who may use the name. The full story is in Budvar vs Budweiser.

The brewery offers tours. Check its official site for current times, since they change. If Czech beer is new to you, our guides to beer styles and how a Czech beer is poured will tell you what is in the glass.

Getting there

Direct trains and buses run from Prague, and the journey takes roughly two and a half hours. Check cd.cz and idos.cz for current times, and book a seat on a busy Friday or Sunday.

A day trip works but is long. Staying a night lets you have the square to yourself in the evening, after the day-trippers have gone.

A base for the south

České Budějovice is the main city of South Bohemia, so it makes a sensible base. Hluboká nad Vltavou, with its neo-Gothic chateau, is a short ride away. Třeboň is the fishpond town, and Český Krumlov is the UNESCO one. On the way down from Prague you could also stop at Konopiště.

The other great beer town has its own guide: Plzeň.

What locals know

The square is best in the early evening, when the arcades catch the light and the cafés fill. The tower view is best on a clear morning. Locals treat the city as their regional capital rather than a tourist town, so you will see ordinary life going on around you, which is much of the appeal.

Do not try to fit České Budějovice, Hluboká and Český Krumlov into one day from Prague. It works on paper and is exhausting in practice. Pick one or two. And if you ask for a Budweiser in a Czech pub, expect to be handed a Budvar. It is a perfectly good lager.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to get to České Budějovice from Prague?

Roughly two and a half hours by direct train or bus. Check cd.cz and idos.cz for current times.

Is Budweiser from here?

The name Budweiser means 'of Budweis', the German name for the town. The Czech brewery here is Budějovický Budvar.

Is it worth staying overnight?

Yes, if you want the square in the evening or a base for the south.

What is the Black Tower?

A Renaissance bell tower beside the cathedral on the main square, which you can climb for a view of the city.

Can I combine it with Český Krumlov?

Yes. The two are linked by train and bus, and many visitors do them together over a weekend.