Třeboň day trip: fishponds, carp country and a very flat bike ride

Almost every Czech family eats carp on Christmas Eve, usually fried, usually with potato salad, and traditionally after the fish has spent a few days in the bath. The carp came from somewhere, and a good deal of it came from here. Třeboň sits in a landscape of ponds that have been dug, dammed and farmed for centuries: flat, glittering and unlike the rest of Bohemia.

A landscape made by hand

The Třeboň Basin in South Bohemia is covered in fishponds, most of them made by people rather than by nature. Pond-building goes back to the Middle Ages and boomed in the sixteenth century, when the local lords realised fish farming paid. The most famous pond engineer was Jakub Krčín of Jelčany, who worked for the Rožmberk family and built the Rožmberk Pond, the largest fishpond in Czechia. Svět pond sits right next to Třeboň.

Since 1977 the region has been a UNESCO biosphere reserve, recognising how ponds, meadows, forests and peat bogs work as a managed landscape. On foot or on a bike you notice how much depends on the water: herons, ducks and anglers on the dams.

The carp harvest

In autumn, usually from October into November, the ponds are drained and the fish caught. This is a výlov, and it is a proper event. Workers in waders pull nets across the shrinking water and sort the fish by hand, spectators watch from the dam with hot drinks, and stalls sell fish and snacks.

Dates and sites change every year, so check the local calendar or the town's website. Come in spring or summer and you will see the ponds but not the nets. A harvest is a working event, not a show: it is cold and often wet, so wear waterproof shoes and warm layers, keep behind the barriers, and listen to the organisers, because dam edges can be slippery.

For what happens next, see Czech Christmas food and Christmas traditions.

The town

Třeboň is small, with a historic centre enclosed by walls. The main square, Masarykovo náměstí, has Renaissance houses and an unhurried mood. The chateau was the seat of the Rožmberks and later the Schwarzenbergs, and can be visited on a tour. The town is also a spa, known for treatments using local peat. This guide does not give health advice; ask the spa directly.

The local brewery makes a beer called Regent, served in the town's pubs. To compare brewing towns, see České Budějovice and Plzeň.

Cycling

The best way to see the ponds is by bike. The terrain is flat, with marked routes along dams and tracks between ponds, and you can hire a bike in town. Loops run from a few kilometres to a full day. Check local maps and the tourist information office for current routes, and note that some tracks are unsurfaced. The ponds are spread over a large area, so a casual ride can turn into a long day.

Getting there

Třeboň is not on a direct line from Prague. The usual route is the main-line train towards České Budějovice, changing at Veselí nad Lužnicí for a local train. Direct buses may also run. Check cd.cz and idos.cz. Allow roughly two to two and a half hours, and look up the return times before you leave town, since connections are limited.

Many visitors stay a night, especially in harvest season. It pairs well with České Budějovice, the larger city to the south, and you could break the journey at Konopiště.

A note on carp

Not everyone likes carp, and nobody is obliged. It has a muddy reputation among people who have had it badly cooked; a good version from a kitchen that cooks it regularly is a different thing. If you are unsure, order a small portion. Vegetarians should see our vegetarian food guide.

Frequently asked questions

What is a výlov?

The autumn harvest of a fishpond, when the pond is drained and the fish are caught in nets by hand.

When is the carp harvest?

Usually from October into November. Dates change each year, so check the local calendar.

What is the biggest pond?

The Rožmberk Pond is the largest fishpond in Czechia.

How do I get there from Prague?

Usually by train towards České Budějovice with a change at Veselí nad Lužnicí, or by direct bus. Check cd.cz and idos.cz.

Is it good for cycling?

Yes. The terrain is flat and there are many routes around the ponds.