Liberec and the Ještěd tower: a mountain with a landmark on top

You can spot Ještěd from a long way off, which is rather the point. The tower on the mountain above Liberec looks like a spaceship that has landed on a hill and decided to stay. It is a working television transmitter, a hotel and a restaurant, and one of the best-known pieces of modern architecture in Czechia.

Liberec itself is a northern industrial city that grew rich on textiles. It is less famous than the tower above it, but it rewards a few hours.

The tower

Karel Hubáček designed the Ještěd tower, and it was built between 1966 and 1973. Its shape is a hyperboloid, a curve that narrows in the middle and widens towards the top. It replaced a mountain hotel that had burned down, it had to carry a transmitter, and it also had to look good: in 1969 it won the Perret Prize of the International Union of Architects.

Today it is a protected landmark. You can eat in the restaurant, and on a clear day the view runs across the Jizera Mountains and the Krkonoše into the plain beyond. The weather decides everything. On a misty day you may find yourself inside a cloud with a very good coffee.

Getting up the mountain

A cable car runs from Liberec up the mountain and is the easy way to the summit. You can also walk up from the lower slopes, a longer outing best done in dry weather. Skiers use the slopes in winter. Check the operator's website for hours and fares, since they change with the season and with maintenance, and look at the notice before you travel: cable cars close for maintenance and in high wind.

Dress for the summit, not for Liberec. The top is usually cooler and windier than the town, even in summer. If you enjoy mountain walking, the Krkonoše Mountains are the bigger version of the same trip.

The town below

The town hall is a large neo-Renaissance building from the late nineteenth century, the kind of pile that tells you the textile barons had money to spend. It also shows the German-speaking influence that stayed strong in this region until the Second World War.

The city also has Liberec Zoo, known for its white tigers, and IQLANDIA, a large science centre that works well for families. The regional gallery and the museum are there for a rainy day, and the botanical garden is good for a city of this size. Check each site's website for hours and prices.

Getting there

Buses and trains run from Prague to Liberec. The bus is often the quicker option, at roughly an hour and a half, and the train may take a little longer depending on the service. Compare them on idos.cz and cd.cz. From the station you will want a local tram or bus to reach the cable car base; the information office can point you to the right line.

Beyond Liberec

The Jizera Mountains to the north are for walking in summer and cross-country skiing in winter. For a different day out in the same direction, the sandstone rocks of Bohemian Paradise are not far away.

Give the mountain a morning and the town an afternoon. Trying to do both in one hurried hour means you will see neither properly. With children, IQLANDIA and the zoo carry a long day well, and the cable car is an attraction in itself.

Frequently asked questions

What is the Ještěd tower?

A hotel, restaurant and television transmitter on top of Ještěd above Liberec, designed by Karel Hubáček and built between 1966 and 1973.

How do I get up the mountain?

By cable car from Liberec, or on foot along the paths. Check the operator's website for current hours.

How long is the journey from Prague?

Roughly an hour and a half to two hours by bus or train, depending on the service. Check idos.cz.

Is Liberec good in winter?

Yes. Ještěd has ski slopes and the Jizera Mountains nearby are popular for cross-country skiing.

What else is there to see in Liberec?

The neo-Renaissance town hall, the zoo, the science centre IQLANDIA and several museums and galleries.