Litomyšl: a Renaissance castle and the town that raised Smetana

If you have heard Vltava, the river piece from Má vlast, you have heard Litomyšl indirectly. Its composer was born here, in a brewery tucked into the grounds of a castle. A town does not get a better opening line.

Litomyšl lies in the hills of east Bohemia, in the Pardubice Region, and it is not on the way to anywhere. That is both its weakness and its appeal. You come on purpose.

The castle

The castle is behind the town's UNESCO listing, which came in 1999. It is a Renaissance chateau built in the later sixteenth century for the Pernštejn family, and the first thing you notice is the facade, covered in decoration that looks like carved stone but is scratched and painted plaster, a technique known as sgraffito. It makes the building look tailored.

Inside you can visit state rooms and the castle's original baroque theatre, which survives in its form from the time. Many such theatres were lost to fire or changing taste, so ask at the ticket desk which circuit includes it. The grounds have gardens and a landscaped park. The National Heritage Institute runs the site and tours are seasonal, so check the official page for dates and languages.

Smetana's town

Bedřich Smetana was born here on 2 March 1824, the son of a brewer who worked for the castle. The family lived in the brewery building, and a small museum there tells the story of his early life. It is modest and personal, a good counterweight to the grand rooms in the castle.

He wrote The Bartered Bride and the cycle Má vlast (My Country), which many Czechs treat as a musical national monument. Start with our guide to Má vlast. In Prague his name is on the hall in the Municipal House, and Vltava opens the Prague Spring festival every year.

Each summer the town hosts an opera festival named after him, Smetana's Litomyšl. Check the dates early if you plan to come then, because rooms fill.

Beyond the castle

The town centre is a long main square with painted and sgraffito facades that echo the castle, and a good place for a coffee. Litomyšl also has the Portmoneum, a small museum of the painter and woodcut artist Josef Váchal, a mystic and illustrator whose work is bizarre and detailed. If you like the odd corners of Czech culture, such as the Golem legend, it is worth the walk.

Getting there

This part needs planning. Litomyšl is not on a major line from Prague. The common route is a train from Praha hlavní nádraží towards Pardubice or Česká Třebová, then a local train or bus. Direct buses from Prague may also run. Compare journey times on cd.cz and idos.cz, and expect a long travel day each way.

That is why a night in town makes the trip far less rushed. Book ahead in summer. Pardubice is the natural gateway and a sensible stop on the way.

A day in Litomyšl

Start at the castle and take the tour. Walk the grounds, visit the brewery museum, then go up to the square for lunch. Add the Váchal museum if time allows, or just sit and look at the facades. There is no need to hunt for extra sights.

With the journey, the tour, the museum and a proper lunch, you will use most of a day, so do not treat Litomyšl as a two-hour stop. Before you go in, walk once round the outside, because the sgraffito and the courtyard arcades are the signature of the place. If you are not a classical music person, enjoy it as an architectural trip. The music is the story, not the entry fee. Combine it with Kroměříž for a UNESCO weekend.

Frequently asked questions

Why is Litomyšl famous?

For its UNESCO-listed Renaissance castle and as the birthplace of the composer Bedřich Smetana, born there on 2 March 1824.

How do I get to Litomyšl from Prague?

Usually by train towards Pardubice or Česká Třebová and then a local connection. Check cd.cz and idos.cz for the best option on the day.

Is it a day trip?

Possible but long. Many visitors stay a night, especially in the summer festival season.

When is the Smetana festival?

Smetana's Litomyšl is a summer opera festival. Check the official programme for dates.

What is sgraffito?

A decorative technique in which layers of plaster are scratched to reveal a different colour beneath, giving the walls a carved look.