Moravian Karst caves: a boat ride on an underground river

Czechia is a landlocked country of fields and forests, so it comes as a surprise that one of its best days out is underground. North of Brno, a limestone plateau is pitted with sinkholes and caves, and a river vanishes into the rock and re-emerges further on. You can ride a boat through part of it, the sort of thing children remember and adults quietly enjoy.

What a karst is

A karst forms when slightly acidic rainwater dissolves limestone over thousands of years. Water seeps into cracks and widens them into caves, sinkholes and abysses. The Moravian Karst (Moravský kras) is the best-known karst area in Czechia and a protected landscape. The surface looks ordinary, with fields and forest, and below it is a labyrinth.

The Macocha abyss

The headline sight is the Macocha Abyss, a sinkhole about 138 metres deep. It formed when the roof of a cave collapsed, and the underground Punkva river flows at the bottom. You can look down from viewing platforms at the top, and a lower platform is reached through the cave system. Check which are open.

The name is often linked to the Czech word macecha, stepmother, and a story involves a stepmother and a pit. Treat it as folklore.

The Punkva caves

The Punkva Caves (Punkevní jeskyně) are the most popular part of the area, for good reason. The tour combines walking and sailing. You walk through high chambers of stalactites and stalagmites, then board a flat-bottomed boat that carries you along the underground river to the foot of the Macocha Abyss, where you can look up at the hole in the roof far above.

Tours run in guided groups at set times. In high season and at weekends tickets can sell out, so check the Caves Administration site for how and when to book. Allow a couple of hours, plus the journey to the caves.

Other show caves in the area include Kateřinská, Balcarka and, further afield, Sloupsko-šošůvské jeskyně. Some are seasonal, so check the Caves Administration's website before building an itinerary.

Getting there

From Prague take a train to Brno, about two and a half to three hours, then change for a local train to Blansko. From there a bus or seasonal shuttle runs towards the caves, though schedules vary. Check cd.cz, idos.cz and the Caves Administration page. The last stretch is the tricky part, so do not rely on a late connection.

With that journey, make it an overnight trip or part of a Brno weekend. Our Brno weekend guide and Olomouc guide both pair with it, and further south the Lednice-Valtice landscape is another Moravian day.

Inside the caves

A show cave is a lit path through a natural structure. Stalactites hang from the ceiling, stalagmites grow up from the floor, and in places they meet as columns. They grow very slowly, so guides ask visitors not to touch. Photography rules differ from cave to cave, and flash may be restricted, so ask at the entrance. The paths include steps and slopes, so the tour does not suit everyone: if mobility is a concern, ask the Caves Administration which routes are accessible before you buy tickets. With small children, ask the ticket office about age limits and carrying.

Eating and extras

There are small restaurants and kiosks near the visitor area, but not many. Bring water and a snack. A walk on the plateau around the abyss is rewarding if you have time left. Treating the caves as an add-on to a Brno day is a mistake: with travel they take a full day, and rushing spoils both the boat ride and the walk.

Frequently asked questions

How deep is the Macocha Abyss?

About 138 metres.

Is the boat ride included in the Punkva tour?

The standard tour combines a walk through the cave with a boat trip on the underground river. Check the Caves Administration site for details.

How do I get there from Prague?

By train to Brno, then a local train to Blansko and a bus or shuttle to the cave area. Check cd.cz and idos.cz.

Do I need to book?

Tours are timed and popular in season, so check the official site and book ahead if you can.

What should I wear?

A warm layer and shoes with grip. Caves are cool and damp all year round.