Olomouc from Prague: a baroque university city, two hours by train

Ask a Czech for a city with much of what Prague has but fewer visitors, and Olomouc often comes up. It is no secret, but it rarely makes a first-time visitor's list. That is part of the pleasure.

The city lies on the Haná plain in central Moravia. It has a large historic centre, a big student population and an easy rhythm that feels different from the capital's.

Getting there

Direct trains run from Praha hlavní nádraží to Olomouc, and the journey takes roughly two to two and a half hours, depending on the service. Several operators run the line, and fares and times differ, so compare cd.cz and the other operators' sites. Some trains require seat reservations, and the busiest fill up on Fridays and Sundays.

A day trip is realistic: an early train out, an evening train back and a good few hours in between. If you want to enjoy the evening on the squares, stay overnight. Olomouc is also a handy stop on the way to Ostrava or to the Moravian countryside, and it pairs well with Brno for a longer Moravian trip.

The two squares

The historic centre is built around two large squares, the Upper Square (Horní náměstí) and the Lower Square (Dolní náměstí), connected by narrow streets.

The Upper Square is dominated by the Town Hall, with its tall tower and its astronomical clock. The clock was damaged at the end of the Second World War and rebuilt in the 1950s in the socialist realist style, with mosaics of workers, athletes and farmers in place of the traditional figures. It is distinctive, divisive and worth a look; compare it with Prague's astronomical clock.

The two squares are also home to a set of six baroque fountains, decorated with figures from Roman and Greek mythology. They are a quiet reminder of the city's baroque past.

The plague column

On the Upper Square stands the Holy Trinity Column, a tall baroque monument decorated with statues of saints. It was built between 1716 and 1754 as a thanksgiving after plague epidemics, and it is among the most elaborate monuments of its type in Central Europe. It was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2000. There is a small chapel in the base, opened on some occasions; ask the tourist information office.

If you have seen the plague column in Prague's Lesser Town, this one is on another scale.

Churches, hills and gardens

St Wenceslas Cathedral rises above the old town on a rise known as Wenceslas Hill, with a tall neo-Gothic tower. Nearby are the remains of the Přemyslid Palace, a reminder of the city's medieval importance.

St Moritz Church is a big Gothic church in the old town, and music lovers know its organ. There are more churches besides. Do not try to see them all; pick one or two.

Olomouc has green space too: parks follow the line of the old fortifications, and the Smetana Gardens sit on the edge of the centre. Compare them with the lawns in our guide to Prague's parks.

University and student life

The city's university, founded in 1573 and re-established as Palacký University after the Second World War, gives Olomouc an unusually high proportion of students for its size. That is why a small city has lively cafés and evening bars. If you are a student yourself, our guide to student discounts is worth a read.

What to eat

Olomouc has its own food identity. The most famous product is Olomoucké tvarůžky, a small, strongly smelling cheese made from sour milk curd. It has protected status in the European Union. Locals eat it with bread and beer, or fried like a schnitzel. The smell is part of the experience; try a small portion, ideally with a beer. For more on pairing, see Czech bar snacks.

Moravian cooking leans a little sweeter and softer than Bohemian, and wine from nearby South Moravia is common on menus; our Moravian wine guide explains the regions.

A simple day plan

Practical notes

• Walking. The centre is flat and compact, which makes it easy to walk.
• Money. Czech crowns; cards widely accepted. See the Czech koruna for beginners.
• Opening hours. Some churches and museums close on Mondays or have limited winter hours. Check the city's website.
• Events. Olomouc holds festivals and markets during the year; check the city's calendar.

For more day trips, see Kutná Hora and Telč, another UNESCO town, though its journey from Prague is more complex.

Frequently asked questions

How long is the train from Prague to Olomouc?

Roughly two to two and a half hours on direct trains, depending on the service.

Is Olomouc worth a day trip from Prague?

Yes, thanks to the direct trains. A night lets you enjoy the evening on the squares.

Why is Olomouc a UNESCO site?

The Holy Trinity Column, a baroque plague monument, was inscribed on the list in 2000.

What is tvarůžky?

A strong-smelling Olomouc cheese with protected status in the EU. Locals eat it with bread and beer.

Can I do Olomouc and Brno together?

Yes, with a night in each or a longer day. Trains connect the two cities.