Šumava National Park: forests, lakes and the quiet end of Czechia

Šumava is the opposite of a sightseeing trip. There is no single monument to photograph, no queue and no need for a plan beyond "walk until lunch". It is a long, forested upland on the border with Germany and Austria, where the villages are small, the evenings are quiet and the night sky is properly dark.

Take a map, a waterproof and a book, and let the place set the pace.

What Šumava is

Šumava, known in English as the Bohemian Forest, is a mountain range along the Czech border with Bavaria and Austria. The national park, created in 1991, covers the highest and best-preserved part on the Czech side and is the largest national park in Czechia. On the German side, the Bavarian Forest National Park, set up in 1970, adjoins it, and together the two form one of the largest continuous forest areas in Central Europe.

The landscape is rounded hills, wide plateaux, peat bogs, streams and glacial lakes. The highest parts top 1,300 metres, but there are no dramatic peaks. The beauty is in the quiet and the space.

The lakes

The glacial lakes are the best-known sights.

Černé jezero (Black Lake) lies below the cliffs of Jezerní stěna near Železná Ruda. It is one of the biggest glacial lakes on the Czech side of Šumava, dark and still, ringed by forest. A marked path leads to it.

Čertovo jezero (Devil's Lake) is another glacial lake with steep wooded slopes. Walks around the lakes are rewarding, and several trails link them.

Plešné jezero and Laka are quieter, smaller glacial lakes reachable on longer walks.

The lakes are protected, and swimming in them is not allowed. Follow the signs.

Old forests, bogs and fallen trees

The Boubín primeval forest (Boubínský prales) has been protected since 1858, making it one of the oldest protected forests in Czechia. You can walk through its old beech and spruce on a marked path. The trees here fall and decay where they stand, which makes the forest look untidy and feel wild.

You will also see areas of dead standing spruce, killed by bark beetle outbreaks, where the park lets the forest regenerate naturally. It looks stark at first sight, and the young forest growing beneath is the point. The park's visitor centres explain the policy and the debate around it.

Peat bogs on the plateau, with boardwalks over wet ground, are another feature. Stay on the boardwalks, because the ground is fragile and the water is deep in places.

Getting there

Šumava is in the south-west of Czechia, and the journey from Prague takes roughly three to four hours. Trains run from Prague via Plzeň to Železná Ruda, the main gateway to the lakes. Buses connect to Kvilda, Modrava and other villages, but services are thinner, particularly at weekends and in winter. Check the timetable at idos.cz and cd.cz before you go.

If you drive, expect restrictions on traffic in places and limited parking at popular trailheads. The national park's website lists the seasonal hiking buses that serve some routes.

Because of the distance and the slow transport, plan at least one night, and two if you want to walk to more than one lake. Our guides to Plzeň and Český Krumlov fit neatly on the way in or out.

Walking, cycling and skiing

Marked trails cover the park, many on the Czech Tourist Club's coloured system. Easy walks follow wide tracks to the lakes. Longer ones cross the plateau, with open views. Cycling is allowed on designated routes only. In winter the high plateaux around Kvilda and Modrava are known for cross-country skiing when there is snow; check conditions locally.

Plan your route and know your daylight. In autumn and winter, days are short and weather changes quickly. A map or app that works offline is helpful, since signal fades in the valleys.

The Lipno treetop walkway

South of the park, near the Lipno reservoir, there is a treetop walkway (Stezka korunami stromů), opened in 2012, a long wooden path that rises into the forest canopy and ends in a tower. It is popular with families and is easy to combine with a stay by the reservoir. Check opening times and ticket details on the operator's website.

Food, lodging and rules

Villages offer guesthouses, pensions and mountain chalets. Booking is wise at weekends, in July and August and in the ski season. Food is hearty: soups, dumplings, game and potato dishes; our guide to Czech soups and the dumplings explainer are handy. In autumn, mushroom picking is a local pastime; see mushroom picking in Czechia for the rules and etiquette, and follow the park's rules on what you may collect.

Expect camping to be limited to designated sites, fires to be banned and dogs to be on a lead; check the park's rules. Take your rubbish with you.

Borders and neighbours

Because the park lies on the border, trails sometimes cross into Germany or Austria, and some crossings are open to walkers and cyclists. Czechia, Germany and Austria are all in the Schengen Area, but carry ID or your passport. Check the park's information on which crossings are open to walkers. For trips across the border, see our guides to Munich and Salzburg for city options.

Frequently asked questions

How big is Šumava National Park?

It is the largest national park in Czechia, established in 1991. The park's website has the current area figures.

How do I get to the Šumava lakes from Prague?

By train via Plzeň to Železná Ruda, then on foot to the lakes. Allow roughly three to four hours each way and check the timetable.

Can I swim in the lakes?

No. Swimming in the glacial lakes within the national park is not allowed.

Is there a good time to visit?

Late spring to autumn for walking. Autumn colour is lovely. In winter, cross-country skiing is possible when there is snow.

Can I wild camp?

Not in the national park, where camping is limited to designated sites. Check the park's rules.