Znojmo and Podyjí National Park: vineyards, gherkins and a river canyon

The Dyje has spent a very long time cutting a winding valley through the granite on the border between Moravia and Austria. The result is one of the quietest corners of Czechia: steep wooded slopes, rocky outcrops, old meadows and vineyards at the edge. For decades the Iron Curtain ran along it and almost nobody went in, which is partly why nature recovered.

Beside the valley is Znojmo, a wine town with a hilltop old town and a surprising amount of history.

The national park

Podyjí National Park was established in 1991 and is the smallest national park in Czechia. It runs along the Dyje valley and is joined on the Austrian side by the Thayatal National Park. Together they protect a varied valley, from dry slopes with warm-climate plants to cool, shaded river bends.

Today it is open to walkers and cyclists, with rules. You must stay on marked trails, as in Czech national parks generally, and some paths have specific restrictions. Check the park's website for the current map and closures.

Walking in the park

Walking is the main activity, with trails from easy strolls to long day hikes. The highlights are viewpoints over the river meanders, the old vineyard slopes near Šobes, where the park meets the wine country, and castles on the valley edges. On the Austrian side you can see the castle at Hardegg across the border.

The valley is quiet and facilities are limited, so bring water and food, wear shoes with grip, and check the weather and day length: paths are slippery after rain, and south-facing slopes get hot in summer. Phone signal can be patchy, so download an offline map. Start with a short route if you do not know the area, and tell someone where you are going. Check return buses and trains before a long walk.

Znojmo

The town stands on a rocky promontory above the Dyje, with a compact old town and a large square. Two things are worth seeking out.

The Rotunda of the Virgin Mary and St Catherine is a small round Romanesque chapel in the castle grounds, with notable wall paintings inside. It is modest in size and large in significance. It is seasonal, so check the castle's opening times.

The Znojmo Underground is a network of passages and cellars beneath the old town, open for guided tours. It is a good wet-weather option and shows how the town was built.

Gherkins and wine

Znojmo is known across Czechia for its gherkins (znojemské okurky), pickled cucumbers with a sweet-sour flavour sold in jars throughout the country and a point of local pride on menus.

The other big product is wine. Znojmo is one of the four Moravian wine subregions and mostly produces white wines. Our guides to Czech wine regions and Moravian wine explain the styles. For more wine country to the east, see Mikulov and Lednice-Valtice.

Getting there

Znojmo is far from Prague. Allow roughly four hours or more, usually by train with a change in Brno, or by bus. Check cd.cz and idos.cz. An overnight stay is much more comfortable than a day trip and gives you a full day in the park. Brno is the natural break in the journey.

The park entrances are not in the town centre, so have a plan for getting there before you arrive.

Bring comfortable walking shoes, water and sun protection in summer. For a gentler day, spend the morning in the old town and the afternoon on a short walk at the edge of the park, with a glass of local wine to follow. Our guide to walking in Prague has shoe advice that suits cobbled towns too.

Frequently asked questions

What is Podyjí National Park?

The smallest national park in Czechia, founded in 1991, along the Dyje on the Austrian border.

Do I need a permit to hike there?

Check the park's official website for current rules. You must stay on marked trails.

How long does it take to get from Prague to Znojmo?

Roughly four hours or more, depending on the connection. Check cd.cz and idos.cz.

What are Znojmo gherkins?

A sweet-sour pickled cucumber that is a local speciality sold throughout Czechia.

What is the Znojmo Underground?

A network of cellars and passages under the old town, open for guided tours.