Prague to Zlín and Moravian Slovakia: a long weekend in the east

Most visitors see a thin slice of Czechia: Prague, a castle or two, a beer town. The east is where the country gets stranger and more interesting. Zlín was a small town that a shoe company turned into a modernist experiment. A short way south, Moravian Slovakia keeps traditions alive that the rest of Europe has mostly filed under museums.

It takes more than a day, which is the point. This is a longer weekend with the logistics worked out.

Getting there

No regular direct train runs from Prague to Zlín. A typical route is a fast train to Přerov or Otrokovice, then a local service on to Zlín, roughly four to five hours depending on the connection (check cd.cz for your date). Some coach services may also run the route in similar time, so compare.

For Moravian Slovakia the hub is Uherské Hradiště, with regional trains through the lowlands to towns such as Veselí nad Moravou, Strážnice and Hodonín. A car helps if you want to see the region properly, since the villages are spread out, though regional trains and buses cover the main towns.

Our guides to Brno and Olomouc cover cities on the way, and either breaks the journey nicely.

Zlín

Zlín's story is the story of Baťa. The company, founded in 1894, grew into one of the world's largest shoemakers, and in the twentieth century its owners rebuilt the town around the factory. Red-brick factory halls, rows of worker houses with gardens, and a high-rise office block known as Building 21 stood for a modern, efficient city. The result is a functionalist landscape you can walk through, built on town-planning ideas that were radical at the time.

The factory district and main square are the heart of it. Museums and galleries occupy former company buildings, and the town hosts a long-running film festival, so check the calendar. For other strands of Czech film, see the Karel Zeman Museum and Barrandov Studios.

Walk it, with a map from the tourist office. The brickwork rewards slow looking, and the town is more compact than it appears.

Moravian Slovakia

Moravian Slovakia, or Slovácko, is a historic region in the south-east of Czechia, near the Slovak border. The name trips people up: it is not Slovakia. It is a Moravian region whose people share a folk culture with their eastern neighbours, with embroidered costumes, a distinctive dialect and cimbalom bands.

It is also wine country. Villages have rows of small, often decorated cellars where families store and sell wine, and in season you can taste in the cellars themselves. Our guides to Moravian wine for beginners and Mikulov explain the wine side. Spring to autumn is the season.

The calendar is crowded with folk events. The Ride of the Kings (Jízda králů) is a spring ritual in which costumed riders on horseback pass through villages, and it is on UNESCO's intangible heritage list. The Strážnice folklore festival is another established event. Dates change yearly, so check the organisers.

Between the two runs the Baťa Canal, a waterway along the Morava that began as an industrial project and now serves pleasure boats and cyclists. The towpaths make an easy day by bicycle if the weather is kind. Check local tourist information for boat times and bike hire first.

A weekend plan

Travel on Friday, reach Zlín in the afternoon, walk the factory district and have dinner. On Saturday take a regional train or a car to Uherské Hradiště and the villages, with a cellar visit in the afternoon and a night in the region. On Sunday see one more sight, such as a castle or village museum, then head back to Prague, leaving a margin for the long ride.

With only two days, choose: Zlín for architecture, or Slovácko for wine and tradition. Both on a short weekend means too much time on trains. Think about the return too, as Sunday evening services can be busy and you will want a seat.

Practical points

Czech is the language of daily life here, and English is less common than in Prague, so a few words help. Our guide to Czech phrases every visitor should know covers the basics. Cards are widely accepted in towns, but small cellars and village stalls may prefer cash.

If you plan to drink wine, don't drive. Czechia has a zero-alcohol rule for drivers, so arrange a taxi, a designated driver or a bed within walking distance of the cellars.

Frequently asked questions

Is there a direct train from Prague to Zlín?

No regular direct train. Plan a change, often at Přerov or Otrokovice, or check for a coach.

Is Moravian Slovakia in Slovakia?

No. It is a region of south-east Moravia in Czechia, close to the Slovak border.

How long does it take to reach Zlín from Prague?

Roughly four to five hours by train with a change. Check the timetable.

What is the Ride of the Kings?

A Moravian spring ritual with costumed horse riders, inscribed on UNESCO's intangible heritage list. Check the dates with the organisers.

Pick a base, book it first and let the trains follow.